Month: December 2023

What day is your house sold?

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The day that’s in the contract as the closing date.

I truly can’t believe how many people have asked some form of this question in my life recently. While I’ve had multiple in person conversations on this topic, this post really stemmed from a Facebook post. “Is it an expectation for people to be moved out of their home the day of closing when buying a home? We sold our house, and are moving into a new home that we’re supposed to close the same day. Is there not a grace period?” What would that grace period be? How would the timing be determined?

On one side, I see the “closing date” section of a Kentucky contract simply states, “The closing of this transaction shall occur on the ___ day of ________________, 20__.” That’s quite useless actually (as I consistently find in KY law and legal documents). There’s a lot to be inferred by that statement, versus it being explicitly and clearly stated. On the contrary (as this has gone many times over), Virginia wins out.

In the paragraph before this image, it states where closing shall occur and by what date. This excerpt clearly indicates the purpose of “closing,” leaving little room for interpretation.

However, if we take a step back from the legal jargon and contractual obligations, whether explicit or inferred, we can see the logic. If you’re the buyer, once you sign the paperwork to purchase the house, wouldn’t you expect the keys to be handed over to you right then so you can start moving in and living in this house you just paid for? Wouldn’t you want the sellers out of the house because they’re no longer financially responsible for the house, and you don’t want any liabilities of their damage (intentional or accidental) to fall on your hands? You’ve done a final walk through and signed off that the house was in the condition you expected it to be in at that point in time.

Now this isn’t to say that there aren’t other terms and conditions that can be agreed to between both parties. “Lease back” or “rent back” clauses are commonly used. Sometimes it’s beneficial for a buyer to process the transaction (e.g., a rate lock expiration), but they allow the seller to remain in the home for an agreed-upon period of time (e.g., to bridge a gap before their new house is ready/available). But all of these terms are to be agreed to, in writing, before the closing date.

When we just sold our last house, we allowed the buyers to store things in the garage. We entered into a contract separate from the house purchase contract, called a “Preclosing Occupancy Agreement.” I haven’t needed one of these in Virginia, so I don’t know their standard form, but KY’s form does well here. The document outlines the date the buyer can take occupancy and whether there’s a charge for it. There were other items that outlined incidentals, such as utilities. In our case, the buyers were simply asking for garage space to put some of their belongings (because they had a same-day-closing for their sale and purchase), so we didn’t require them to put any utilities in their name before the sale.

BRIDGE LOAN

I can understand the complaint. Financially, you likely need to sell your current home to afford a new home. The “cash” from your sale is what you’ll use as your downpayment, as most people don’t have 20% of $400k sitting in a savings account (nor should you!). That makes the option to buy the house, take a day or two or seven to empty out your old house, and then sell your house not feasible.

There’s such a thing called a bridge loan. It’s a short-term loan used to purchase assets until long-term financing can be secured. There are more fees and high interest rates associated with this. However, it could be worth it to save the hassle of Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI). PMI is required in many cases where you cannot provide 20% as a downpayment for a house purchase. It protects the lender in case you don’t make your mortgage payments. PMI is removed when your principal balance falls below 80% of the original value of your home, whether that’s through regular mortgage payments or you make additional principal only payments. You can request PMI be removed earlier than that if you provide proof that your home value has caused your principal balance to now be less than 80% of the value, which is typically proven through an appraisal at your cost. If you put 0% down on a $400,000 purchase, it would take almost 12 years of payments before your loan reached 80% of the original home value. That’s 12 years that you’re paying PMI on top of your mortgage payment, and those are funds that are doing nothing productive to your net worth. A bridge loan may be worth it if you already have a sale date on your current house and only need to cover a few days or weeks.

SUMMARY

Logistically, it would be great if you could buy your new home, move all your things, and then sell your current home. Financially, this isn’t normally feasible. A lot of the time, you’re needing the equity you have tied up in your current home to purchase your next home.

Our first purchase was made up of two 401k loans (that we maxed as residential loans, which are penalty free), a gift from parents because we were short just a few thousand dollars, and cash on hand. We needed about $80k. Our second transaction, we chose a new build house. We sold our house, went into a rental for 3 months, and then used the sale money to purchase. Our third transaction was also a new build. We hopped AirBnBs until that got old with a 6 month old and 2 year old, and then crashed in Mr. ODA’s parents’ basement. We had 7 weeks between selling our house and purchasing the new one, so the cash from the sale went into our account, and we let it sit there until we needed it to close. Then this current purchase was actually done before we sold our third house, but we had executed a Home Equity Line of Credit prior to the sale. We used the HELOC to put the down payment on the current house, and then the sale of our third house paid off the mortgage and HELOC before distributing the cash balance to us. In all of these transactions, we had the ability to float the funds. That allowed us the ability to house our belongings in “long term” storage (not a day or two) for those two times we had a gap between the sale and purchase. The HELOC allowed us to slowly move our belongings to the new house this last time, and then we did a final moving day of all our big items just before closing (our current house needed work when we bought it, so we didn’t move right away).

But in all cases, unless there’s a separate document indicating so, the closing date of a transaction is the date that you give or take possession of the property. If you were buying, you wouldn’t want to take the risk of the previous owners messing with something in a property you now own. If you were selling, the buyers would have the same expectation.

Bathroom Renovation

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We purchased a house in June 2022. Most of the house had been updated or was in good shape, but the master bathroom was the original from 1992. This isn’t a bad thing, but bathroom designs have changed a lot since that time. Aesthetically, the bathroom would have been fine. Functionally, I didn’t want to shower in a 2.5′ by 2.5′ shower stall, and the higher standard of vanity height is something I’ve gotten used to. The day we closed, we started gutting the bathroom.

BATHROOM EXPERIENCE

Our first ever renovation project was a bathroom that we gutted, redesigned, and rebuilt in our first home we owned, back in 2013. The house was a foreclosure, and it had been flipped by the bank. The place looked good, but it didn’t last. The bathroom shower tiles were cracking as soon as we moved in. We took walls down and rebuilt them because of mold, we moved the door to allow for a better vanity set up, and we moved the toilet so that you weren’t walking around the vanity to get to it. We had been quoted $25k for a contractor to do it. We spent $4k on materials.

Our last home was a new-build and had an unfinished basement with a bathroom rough-in. We had my dad’s help setting the plumbing, and then we finished it out ourselves. After we did the first bathroom, we said we wouldn’t do vertical tiling again. We really just learned not to use 12×12 tiles on the wall.

The bathroom cost us about $6k to complete. While everyone was being quoted $75k-120k for a finished basement with bathroom, we did almost all the work ourselves (dad’s help on bathroom and setting studs, hired a drywall finisher, and we didn’t lay our own flooring) for about $20k.

We also did a quick bathroom refresh in our current home. The basement bathroom here was forgotten. It hadn’t been cleaned or updated (most of the house had switches and outlets changed to white from yellow, but not this room). For less than $1,000, we laid a new floor, updated the trim, replaced the vanity and toilet, painted, updated the accessories and mirror, and replaced the switches and outlet. We didn’t touch the tub or the faucets in there.

BACKGROUND

The bathroom was an L-shape. There was a 114″ vanity with a full length wall mirror over that. It also had 2 5-light wall mounted light fixtures over each sink (excessive!). Then the shower was your typical plastic molded shower stall with a frosted glass door. It was 2.5′ x 2.5′. Around the L was the toilet (awkward positioning, really), and beyond that was the soaking tub with built-in molded steps. Oh, and there was a ceiling fan over the vanity.

THE PLAN

We needed to take everything out so we could see our options. We gutted the bathroom pretty quickly, but we dragged our feet on the rebuild. It worked out in my favor though; I’ll come back to that.

The L-shape encompasses the master bedroom’s closet. It’s a walk-in closet, but it’s not spectacular. We tried to make a plan where we knocked down the closet walls and reconfigured the whole space, but the window placement hindered us, along with some of the desired sizes of fixtures. Once we gave up on incorporating the closet space, it was clear we just wanted to make the shower more functional.

As we started laying blue tape to map out the size of the shower, we realized we were hindered by the closet walls. If we made it too big, we lost the ability to walk around the L-shape comfortably. The whole point here was that we wanted a bigger shower. We settled on as wide as we could make it, while still being able to fit around the corner (generally looking at 3′ wide, which is standard hallway width).

At the beginning, I mentioned that I wanted to washer and dryer moved from the garage entry. Mr. ODA said we’d do it “later.” But the walls were opened now… so why not now? He came around. We hired an electrician to move the dryer electric from the room off the garage, directly above it to our bedroom, and then up into the attic to move over and come down into the bathroom. That meant the width of the shower was now maxed at how wide our washer/dryer was to get through the hole.

We bought a waterproofing system to build the shower any size we wanted (versus a shower pan), and we ended up about 3.5′ x 5′. We dropped the vanity section to 7′, and dropped our lighting to 2 2-light fixtures. 🙂

We eventually will add glass to the shower area (there’s a curtain there for now). The master bathroom is the most infrequently cleaned area of my house (and I clean a lot!), so maintaining a glass shower enclosure that’s used daily is just not high on my priority list. Mr. ODA had built a shower bench for our last house’s shower, and by some miracle, it fit perfectly in this newly built shower. We also reused the floor tile option because we wanted a statement in here, but we were too scared to commit to a pattern and it not look right; we knew what this pattern looked like, so we kept it.

The plumbing for the washer and dryer was a concern. We were able to use the old tub’s drain to be the washer drain. We were also able to use the supply lines. However, since the supply lines were on an interior wall, and we were nervous about moving them to an exterior wall (so it would be behind the washing machine), we kept them there. The width of the room didn’t allow for clearance for the supply lines to be hidden down further, so the lines fall across the top of the washer. While not aesthetically great, everything else about this is so much more functional and makes me happy.

MUD ROOM

The washer and dryer moving to where the tub was in the master bathroom meant we could create a mud room. This was a really big deal to me. We park in the garage. Our garage door is basically always open and this is how people come and go. I wanted a functional space that wasn’t cramped by a washer and dryer that you were walking around.

Additionally, the previous owner had changed the closet function to be 2 shelves. There was no hanging room for coats, and there was no storage for mops or vacuums on the first floor. We moved the middle-of-the-closet shelf to be a higher shelf, added the dowel so we could hang coats, and cut the bottom shelf in half to still allow for some storage options, but also allow for vacuum storage.

We’ve since added shelving over mini fridge, and there are bins for shoes in the cubbies. In our last house, we had a bar area in the basement where this fridge was. We had originally planned for it to be in the basement in our current house also, but we don’t spend as much time as we thought down there. It was a perfect fit to include it in the mud room and build the bench to incorporate it.

By moving the washer and dryer from this room (for our own labor and about $400 worth of an electrician), we made our house significantly more functional. As I grow older (and move an absurd amount of times), I’ve learned how much more important it is for my house to function.

SUMMARY

A quick facelift to a bathroom is a pretty easy project. Moving plumbing, electric, and walls creates a few more levels of difficulty. However, it’s not impossible. We’ve learned over the years that if we act as our own general contractor (hiring out piecemeal), we can save a lot of money. In this post-covid-world, contractor costs are high. If we hired out this entire bathroom, I don’t doubt that we could have been looking at $45-50k with all the things that were to be moved. Instead, it cost us about $5,000 worth of materials and our time.

Our time was definitely at a premium. We dragged our feet on decision making, while focusing on other areas of the house. The kids’ bathroom is directly outside our bedroom, so it wasn’t a hassle for us nor was there an immediate need for us to be back in our own bathroom. We got the floor tile down as fast as we could before we officially moved in, since our washer and dryer would need to be placed. That lit the fire for our toilet and vanity to be installed too. But the shower was a different story. We got it framed out, but didn’t start laying tile and grouting until after our 3rd was born. I thought I would feel better doing that work once I wasn’t pregnant anymore, but I didn’t factor in the baby needing to be help all day long, so that created quite a challenge. But we did it.

We gutted the bathroom in mid-June, and we had it completed done (well, except for the shower glass that I just don’t even want) by Christmas. While we took our time doing it, the best parts are how much more functional and comfortable the house is, and how it cost us about 10% of what it would have been if we hired it out.

December Financial Update

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I’m not even sure where to start for this month. It has been a whirlwind. There were a lot of tax payments last month, and this month I was still paying those among several other things.

PURCHASES

I purposely paid my credit card statement a little earlier than the due date so that it wouldn’t be that high for this update, but then I put a bunch of charges on it over the last two days. To catch you up – we’ve been holding money in our savings account for as long as possible. When we were getting 0.2% interest on it, it didn’t matter when I paid the card, so I typically paid it shortly after the statement closed. Now that we’re getting 4.22%, it’s worth keeping the money in there to earn interest, and then paying the credit card closer to the due date.

Our regular-use credit card is currently holding: $300 towards my dad’s iPhone (I should really share that mess of a story in purchasing that) (also, that doesn’t clearly account for my sisters having paid $200 towards that because that’s just “cash” in our checking account balance), $500+ of the kids preschool tuition, renewing our zoo membership for $139 (honestly, 5 of us enjoying the zoo for the year for that price is wonderful), over $200 for signing our son up for tee ball, two car insurance payments, and a rental insurance payment. I don’t typically go through the charges like that, but it’s just been a bunch of just-big-enough charges to grab my attention on our credit card balance. We drove to-and-from NY, so our gas station payments are higher than average too. As a reminder, the credit card balance you see also includes $10k worth of new carpet that we’re paying slowly on a 0% interest credit card.

RENTAL PROPERTY EXPENSES

I paid two of our Richmond houses’ taxes. The taxes are due on January 14th, but if I pay them this year, then it reduces what’s viewed as our ‘profit.’ I make sure to pay any known January bills in December of each year. Those two houses are so tiny, so their tax payments being so much larger than they once were kind of hurt (I’ve discussed the increases in property assessments, thereby increasing taxes). It was about $2,000 paid out (on top of all the things I paid over the last two months).

I also had to pay two supplemental taxes for Lexington. Government entities not meeting deadlines is a pet peeve of mine (I used to work for the Federal government). Last year, I completely missed that paperwork I received was a supplement bill for education, and then I received a penalty.I thought it was their typical assessment notice since it was outside of tax payment time. Luckily it was a few dollars, but I was so lost. This year, I paid close attention when I received an extra tax-related document. This supplemental bill was for trash services. Again, a few dollars. But think of all the extra paperwork, staff hours, postage, payment processing cost to collect an extra $20 from every house.

RENTAL PROPERTY INCOME

We had two tenants give us notice that they’re moving out. While extremely unfortunate timing on the year, I’m also human and understanding of their need. One tenant had a traumatic work event that led to him being laid off, and another family bought a house. We’ll find a way to get the houses re-rented as soon as possible, even though our vacancy time may be longer than it would have been if we were looking for a May 1st or June 1st renter. We have someone interested in both houses at this time, so that’s encouraging.

We had 4 tenants not pay in full. They all reached out to me to let me know in advance, and they paid what they could by the 5th (I always appreciate that – it holds them accountable, and it allows me to not foot all of the bills that I have to pay on the houses). As of the end of the 5th, we were short over $3,000 worth of rent ($1300 of that was for the house that has been late since October 1st and is finally working towards paying their debts).

As of today, we’re short $2,400. The tenant who’s playing catch up only has a balance of $960 left, which is great (that’s been a long road). Another tenant typically pays $750 on the 5th and 19th. So they’re not late on $750, but they are late on the $375 they didn’t pay in the first half of the month (this is a special scenario that we put in place for them because they couldn’t pay all at the beginning of the month, so we increased their rent as a concession to being able to pay twice per month without creating more late fees for them… but they’re still late).

NET WORTH

The market significantly increased over the last month. We also had $28k come in as part of our insurance claim; our cash increased by $35k though, so there’s an additional savings in there. And even though we had large expenses on our credit cards, it’s still slightly down from last month.

BONUS STORY

Mr. ODA and I wait for Black Friday deals to purchase our iPhones. We typically purchase every 3 years. I usually bite for a new phone so that the camera is better, but I’m suspicious that Apple is sending updates to alter the clarity of photos on older phones. How can I take these BEAUTIFUL pictures for the first few months of having a phone, and then all my pictures are grainy suddenly? ANYWAY.

Walmart had a deal that you purchase the iPhone 14 on a payment plan, and they give you a $350 Walmart gift card. These are the deals we typically seek. Apple is still getting their full price for the phone, but Walmart is offering a deal to bring our net to $0. When you want to purchase the phone from Walmart, it asks you to log into your carrier’s account. For this phone, it’s Verizon. We spend hours trying to figure out who the primary account holder is and what that log in it. Verizon does it where you can create your own log in and see you phone’s data at any time, but to see the entire plan’s data, you have to be the account holder (makes sense, but complicates this particular instance). The primary account holder is my mom’s phone number. Who died in March. We finally get assistance with that and log into the account through Walmart. It brings up all the lines on the account, we select my dad’s number, and then it gets to step 2. It says they can’t verify the address on the account and we need to go to Walmart mobile desk in a store. I call Verizon. Can’t help. I call Walmart. They keep telling me to put the item in my cart, which isn’t how you purchase a phone. So no help.

I finally bite the bullet, and on the Saturday after Thanksgiving, march myself to the nearest Long Island Walmart. They can’t help because they need the phone in the store. I swear if I were at my Walmart in Kentucky, they would have helped me. It was actually at the point where I was going to risk waiting until Tuesday so that I could have my phone desk people help me. The Walmart employee actually wasn’t flippant or trying to blow me off; I believe he genuinely thought he couldn’t help me. What needed to happen was that he called their help desk people, and then he was the mediator to figuring out the address. I figure this because a Walmart customer service person transferred me to such a person, who said he’s not allowed to talk to me and has to have a Walmart employee talking to him on my behalf.

I gave up. Sunday comes. I hope that some “overnight” processing of information has magically cured the process. It didn’t. I call Verizon again. Some angel of a lady answered the phone and actually helped me more than I could have imagined. I told her that I wanted the Walmart deal because all the Verizon deals require me to change my plan to unlimited data. I let her know that I’ve already spoken to several people, and they keep trying to convince me that I get a “free” iPhone while my plan increases $30 per month in perpetuity (versus $23 per month for 36 months for the phone). She offered me a deal that equates to $5/month for the phone for 36 months. So I put 100x more hours into this than I should have, but it ended up working out in our favor!

Fast Food Deals

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We stopped at McDonald’s on our way to visit family before Thanksgiving. We sat down at a table where someone had left their receipt. Their total was over $35. This other customer had ordered a 10 piece mcnugget meal for $10.39. We had ordered a 10 piece, a large fry, and a large soda, and we had spent about $2.50.

This thought to share these details was resurrected when my sister complained that she stopped at McDonald’s for two meals and spent $30 to feed just two people. It takes a minute or two of your time, even if you pull into a parking spot and place the order right there, to save a significant amount on your order.

MOBILE APP

Some restaurants only offer earning rewards with each purchase, to then be redeemed at a later date (e.g., I redeemed points earned in the Chick-Fil-A app for a free medium waffle fry). There are others that occasionally send a reward to you with a quick expiration date (e.g., Chick-Fil-A will send a free chicken sandwich if you haven’t ordered recently). While other restaurants may offer deals like coupons within the app (e.g., 50% off a 10 piece nugget).

In the era of scanning your own groceries and placing your own restaurant orders at kiosks instead of a cashier, it’s not surprising that companies are attempting to entice you into mobile ordering with deals. Not all fast food places have as robust of a ‘deals’ section as McDonald’s, which is probably why we almost only stop at McDonald’s on our road trips. However, it’s noteworthy that each McDonald’s restaurant offers different deals. Some may be completely different, while others may just be a different price (e.g., a 40 piece nugget for $9.99, or a 40 piece nugget for $13.99).

THE PROCESS

We typically use my phone and Mr. ODA’s phone to place two orders so we can take advantage of two deals. I fully acknowledge that this is all ‘extra.’ Most of the time, I don’t have the patience to put all that effort in, but Mr. ODA does. He knows the general menu prices so he can quickly evaluate where the best deals are. One time, I was given no instructions on placing my half of the order, and I picked the deal for $1 coke. For a while, that was a big deal because they had raised the price of soda so much (and took away the $1 anytime any size promotion they had run for a long time). It turns out, sodas are now $1.29 on the menu, so the $1 deal isn’t great when there are other deals to be had (like free fries). For McDonald’s, you can only use one deal in a 15 minute span. That means we’ve also placed an order to eat at the restaurant, and then placed another order once we were there and able to on the app.

For my local restaurant, the deals currently offered are:
– Free double cheeseburger or 6 piece nugget when you buy one
– 50% off a 10 piece nugget
– $0 delivery fee with a $15 purchase
– 20% off any purchase of $5 or more
– 30% off any purchase of $5 or more
– Free any size fries with a $1 purchase
– $5 daily double, double cheeseburger, or mcdouble, medium fries, and medium soft drink
– Free 10 piece nugget with a $3 purchase

First, you want to verify that the restaurant address is the correct one you’re going to. You need to utilize the deals of a specific location, and you need to pick up your order at that location.

With a family of 5 (and 3 kids who are 5 and younger…picky eaters), we don’t stray from what we know very much. But let’s delve into the deal options. A large fry is $3.29, a medium fry is $2.99; a McDouble is $2.79; a 6 piece nugget is $3.49, a 10 piece is $4.99, a 20 piece is $6.69, and a 40 piece is $9.49; a small, medium, or large coke is $1.29. McDonalds also has the $1 $2 $3 menu, even though nothing is ever $1 anymore (mine has a McChicken for $2.19, McDouble for $2.79 (glad that’s consistent on the menu), $2.29 small fry, and $2.59 4 piece chicken nugget).

The McDouble deal would be $2.79+2.99+1.29=$7.07. You’re saving $2.07 by utilizing the deal.

The 10 piece nugget meal is $8.39. A la carte, the cost would be $4.99+2.99+1.29=$9.27. You’re saving $0.88 by making it a meal. If I were to use the deals, I could order a medium fry and medium drink for $4.28, hitting the $3 minimum purchase requirement, and get the 10 piece nuggets for free. Then I’m saving $4.11 from the meal price.

We typically will order a large fry and utilize the 10 piece deal on one phone. Then we’ll use my phone to order a coke and use the ‘free any size fry’ deal. Depending on the situation, we may add one or two McDoubles or McChickens to the order. If we order two sandwiches, we’re spending $9 to feed 5 of us.

SUMMARY

We don’t eat from restaurants very often. Sometimes we feel like going out to eat, or running an errand that will include a meal (like a Costco food court meal haha). Most of the time, we’re eating at a restaurant out of necessity (yes, a necessity because I refuse to live off pop tarts and granola bars for a 12 hour drive).

This entire post is a plug to utilize rewards systems and apps to help your money go further. This doesn’t even scratch the surface of mobile ordering, which would include delivery apps like UberEats. Menu prices on these food delivery apps are higher than the restaurant, charge fees, and you have to tip. I don’t think people fully understand how much extra money they’re spending when they use an app like that. But as I said, that’s not the point of this post. If you’re driving to a fast food restaurant (or even a fast casual like Chipotle or Qdoba), join their rewards and take advantage of their app-only deals.

Be strategic and intentional on how you’re spending money. Put the one full minute it takes into placing a mobile order to cut your cost in half!