amortization

Home Sale Proceeds

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*This post was started in November 2022, but our son was born 3 weeks early (and on Thanksgiving), so it fell off my radar for a long time while I caught back up. Let’s dive in now.

We sold our primary home at the beginning of November to move a half hour away and closer to family. It was a new construction home, and we purposely sold when we did to avoid capital gains taxes. If you call it your primary residence for 2 of the last 5 years, you’re exempt from capital gains. Considering the market over the last two years (2020-2022), we were slated to owe a hefty penny if we sold before that 2 year mark.

Had we sold earlier or perhaps waited for the spring, we could have made more. Instead, we opted to be rid of the home, not try to rent, and be able to have that behind us. We were extremely fortunate that we were under contract by the end of the first weekend we listed. The market had cooled significantly from the multi-bid, exorbitant pricing, with appraisal waiving language days.

We only had 2 showings. The first politely let us know they wanted a walk-out basement. We had an amazing basement with 9′ ceilings and no soffits, but it didn’t have a door due to the floodplain. We don’t really understand why, but the backyard was definitely low enough for it to have been a walk out basement. It was one of the red flags that made me uncomfortable living there, along with a long delay for construction on our lot and a few around us due to extensive sink hole surveying. The second showing made us an offer 10k below asking. We sort of split the difference at $495k, and they accepted.

There were several houses listed in that neighborhood for weeks after we closed, that were listed the same weekend as us, so I am eternally grateful that the stars aligned for what we wanted/needed.

PROCEEDS CALCULATION

We purchased the home for $346,793 in November 2020. The contracted purchase price when we sold was $495,000, which was completed in November 2022. That’s a difference of $148,207, but that’s not “take away” money.

As the seller, you’re typically responsible for paying out the Realtor commissions. They’re typically 6%. We asked our Realtor if she would drop it to 5% (buyers agent gets 3%, sellers agent gets 2%) since we had drawn up our purchase contract sight unseen and this was the 4th commission based transaction she had from us in less than 2 years. She agreed. I truly don’t like asking someone to take a lower commission, but due to there being several transactions in a short period of time, many not even needing much effort (showings, phone calls, etc.), I accepted Mr. ODA’s plea to ask. That comes to $24,750 paid in Realtor commissions.

We then have to pay off any loans that used that property as collateral. We had a mortgage and a Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC). We had put 20% down on the purchase, so the mortgage had about $266k left as the balance. The HELOC had been used for a couple of other things than just the down payment on a new home, and it didn’t require principal payments on it while we had it, so that balance was about $86k.

We walked away from the closing table with about $117,000 after tax offsets and such.

PAST DETERMINATIONS FOR WHAT TO DO WITH THE PROCEEDS

In July 2012, we purchased our first home for $380,000. We put 20% down; it was a foreclosure, but the only work we had to do was on the main floor bathroom. When we sold that home Fairfax, VA for $442,500 in October 2015, we paid off a car loan and bought our second two rental properties in Richmond, VA. The car loan was only at 0.9% interest, so it didn’t meet Mr. ODA’s requirements to pay down loans with higher interest rates, but it did alleviate one monthly payment I had to manage. The irony of that statement, now that I manage 14 houses worth of payments all year. We also used those proceeds to put 20% down on the purchase of a new primary home outside of Richmond, which had a purchase price of $359,743. We paid off House1’s mortgage because the loan had a balloon payment that we needed to be ahead of.

When we sold that Richmond home for $399,000 in September 2020, we took about $109k away. We used those proceeds to put 20% down on the purchase of our new home, at $346,793, outside of Lexington, KY. We paid off House4, House6, and House13. Since paying towards a mortgage and not paying it off doesn’t change your monthly cash flow, we focused on where we could eliminate a mortgage payment. We’ve since paid off House11 and House12. House12 had a high interest rate, so we were interested in eliminating that as fast as possible, even though we were paying for it with a partner.

WHERE DID THE MONEY GO THIS TIME

We purchased our current primary home last summer and put work into it. Since we purchased it before selling our house, we used a HELOC to pay for the down payment. That meant that when we walked away from the closing table, the money we were putting in our bank account had no distinct purpose (like in the previous cases where we had to use some of the sale proceeds to buy another primary house).

The first thing we did was open a high yield savings account. At the time, it was necessary because our savings account wasn’t paying market rate. I remember Mr. ODA complaining that interest rates on loans were increasing, but it wasn’t being shown on savings interest side. He found a high yield savings account that gave a sign on bonus (we like that ‘free’ money!). We put $50,000 into that account, earning over 4% interest. The money in that account was removed and put into our regular savings account, which is now earning over 4%.

Since the money didn’t have a purpose, we needed to get it into the market. If we put it all in the market at once, then we’re subject to a lot more fluctuation. To hedge our volatility, we planned to schedule regular investments. It seemed crazy to me, but our financial advisor and Mr. ODA decided on $5,000 per week. That would take 20 weeks to accomplish. To my chagrin, this was set up as an auto transfer. Even with a large balance sitting in the account, it didn’t hurt any less watching $5,000 every week be taken out. This plan didn’t last long though because Mr. ODA found Treasury accounts that act as short term certificates of deposit. My next post will go into this in more detail.

Not an immediate need, and we didn’t rush to buy something for the sake of buying it, but we earmarked about $20k for the purchase of a new van. I love the van we bought in 2019 (which was a used 2017), but it had a few kinks in it. I also felt pretty good about the deal I got on it. However, I didn’t put the time into test driving and looking at this van that I really should have because one of us had to stay in the show room with the kids while the other went for a drive. I also know what I’m looking for in a used car now (that was our first used car experience), versus buying a brand new car that hadn’t been driven by others. It helped that I was looking to buy the same exact van, just newer, so I know how it’s supposed to work and what to test. We ended up finding a van about 2 hours away from us in early 2023. We’re almost a year into this van, and I absolutely love it.

In the back of our minds, we’re still looking for another rental property. There’s an area in town near us that would work for short term rentals, which I’d like to dabble in. We have seriously considered a few, but interest rates have shot it down. A 1500 square foot house, with a $200,000 mortgage, comes to a monthly payment (of just principal and interest) of about $1,400. That’s just not good margins with such high interest on it. We’ll keep an open mind, but so far it isn’t panning out.

SUMMARY

Our savings account is currently earning 4.22%. Mr. ODA is also managing that balance by using the short-term Treasury bills. Since we started with the Treasury bills, we’ve made about $500, which is on top of the interest we’ve earned to date on the savings account, which is over $1600.

We started off with paying the mortgage that had a balloon payment. It was a commercial type loan, so it was amortized over 30 years, but was really only a 5 year loan. We decided to pay it off instead of re-mortgaging it at the end of the 5 years. After we took care of the balloon payment approaching, we started paying off mortgages where we could eliminate a payment (we had multiple houses with $30-60k worth of a balance), and then moved onto paying off high interest rate mortgages (for reference, a high interest rate was 5% … which is much different than today’s mortgage rates being “good” at 7.5%). We went through the process to refinance several mortgages, so we’re at a point where we’re happy with the mortgages that are left. If we wanted 100% cash flow, we’d start paying towards principal balances. However, we don’t feel that’s necessary for our current situation. We have 6 mortgages left (including our personal residence) out of 14 houses.

We definitely are more hands on with our money management than most people are going to be interested in. Now that we’re happy with our mortgage situation, we are focused on the interest side of our money working for us. With multiple Treasury bills that are reinvested for short periods of time (4 week and 8 week bills), then we’re able to earn quick interest while we don’t have a purpose for that money.

One of our houses has a balloon payment again (commercial loan). That will come due in about 3.5 years. Considering what current interest rates are, it doesn’t appear that refinancing is as enticing as just paying off the balance or selling the house. We’ll have to keep that in mind as we work on investments and having enough liquid cash over the coming years, because that loan’s balance is going to be about $173k at the end of the 5 year term.

For now, we’re in a good money management state with several short term bills and a savings account rate over 4%.

Amortization Schedules

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An amortization schedule is a document that is a huge spreadsheet of numbers that tells banks and their software how to apply your monthly mortgage payment. It defines the amount of each payment going to principal to pay off the loan balance, and the amount going to interest for the bank allowing you to borrow their money.

Let’s rewind. How does the bank figure out how much your monthly principal and interest payment is going to be? This is a function of several things:

  • Loan amount (purchase price minus down payment)
  • Interest rate
  • Loan term (length)

Want to see a formula for that?

  • loan amount = x
  • interest rate = y
  • loan term (months) = z

Looks like a blast doesn’t it? I saved this formula into my spreadsheet for evaluating properties so that once I fill in the purchase price, expected down payment, loan length, and the predicted rate from my lender, it will auto-populate the monthly mortgage payment amount. I then take that number and can calculate predicted cash flow based on a rent estimate.

Back to the point of the post. Loans with long terms borrow the money for a long time. Loans with high rates borrow the money more expensively. In both cases, the early stages of the amortization schedule give much more money to the bank as your fee for borrowing (interest) than they do to pay down the loan. This is because every dollar of that loan principal is being borrowed and needs paid for.

In the first payment, the entire principal amount borrowed is in that formula above, so it’s expensive to the bank to give you that money. Fast forward 15 years of a 30 year loan and you have far less outstanding principal left, so the interest charge associated with that is less. Since your total monthly mortgage payment (principal and interest, ignoring escrows) total doesn’t change, the interest applied towards a smaller balance leaves more ‘room’ to pay toward more principal. Basically, the bank gets its money out of your monthly payment first, and what is left over can go to principal pay-down.

DAILY INTEREST

To better explain the cost of borrowing each dollar over time, it’s likely easier to break it down into daily interest. An amortization schedule calculates the cost to the borrower for giving you the bank’s money on a per day basis. So while I have access to $X for the whole month, I owe the bank for every day I’m carrying that principal. Multiply by 30 and that’s what the bank charges me for interest for the month. Then, remember that the leftover is what goes to the principal pay-down.

How to calculate. Divide your annual interest rate by 365 to get your daily interest rate. Multiply that rate by the outstanding principal to get your daily interest charge. Multiply that by the days in the month (or most banks use a standard month length = 365/12) and come up with the interest the amortization schedule charges you for that month’s payment.

We mentioned the different types of amortization we’ve seen in the House 1 post. This loan calculated your monthly principal part of the payment by the exact number of days in the month so each month’s proportion of principal to interest varied up and down. This is in contrast to what most banks do that I mention above.

THEORETICAL EXAMPLES

A pretty standard rate in the last decade is 4% on a 30 year fixed mortgage. Lets say the loan amount is $100k. Plugging that into my formula above, we get a monthly payment of $477.42. Above are the first 10 payments on that loan. Only about 30% of your monthly payment is actually paying down principal at the beginning. It takes 153 payments (i.e., months) before the amount of each payment going to principal is actually more than paying interest. Total interest on the full loan in this scenario is $71,869.

Now lets look what happens when we change it to a 15 year loan. The total payment jumps to $739.69 because you are paying the principal down twice as fast. But, the first payment you make is already $406.35 worth of principal pay down. Compare it to the first loan example in the terms of daily interest. The rate is the same. The amount is the same. So the interest due for the month is the same. But because your amortization schedule knows that you’re paying the loan off much earlier and requires a larger total payment, the leftover for principal pay-down is far more substantial.

Next, look how much quicker the interest charge drops after just 10 payments compared to the first example. $320.98 vs $328.95. This is because you are paying principal down more quickly, so the outstanding balance decreases and the daily interest is then lower too. Total interest in this scenario is $33,143.

In this example, we move back to a 30 year loan, still at $100,000, but we bumped the rate to 6%. The total payment rises to nearly $600, and the principal to interest ratio of the beginning payments is quite poor. Only 17% of the payment is going to principal pay down, which means that the daily interest is high, and stays high for many months. It’s not until month 223 (18 years later!) before the amount of principal in each payment is higher than the interest payment. Total interest in this scenario is $115,838.

Side story – Mr. ODA’s parents paid off their 30 year mortgage on their residence in 12 years. As a child, Dad would explain to me their process. They printed out the amortization schedule and put it on the fridge. Each month, based on their regular cash flow of life, they would choose ‘how many months’ they wanted to pay to the loan. So they’d make their regular payment, then they’d pay the principal portion of the next 2-3 months on the amortization schedule also. They’d make some really gnarly extra payments with weird dollars and cents, but it was a calculated decision. Then they’d cross those months off the schedule, knowing that with that extra payment, the interest that was tied to that principal portion on the schedule was simply avoided/canceled, by paying that principal early. This was a powerful tool to help me understand how the loan process worked, and one that help create the foundation for me to look at time value of money, opportunity cost, guaranteed return vs potential invested return, etc. Dad missed a lot of stock market gains by accelerating a 30 year mortgage to 12 years, but very few people ever regret owning the roof over their head free and clear – with a byproduct of NO MORTGAGE PAYMENTS for the 18 years that would’ve been remaining! Now he can make more investments with that leftover cash flow of life.

Amortization schedules are one of the largest “gaps” in understanding for the typical mortgage customer. They typically get told what to pay each month and ascribe to a “set it and forget” mantra that they know in 30 years, their house will be owned free and clear. Anytime before that, why bother understanding the background math?

As you can see in the examples, a shorter loan means faster pay down with less interest overall, and a lower interest rate means a smaller payment. When looking at loan options, understanding how the math operates to get to your options can help you determine what your priorities and goals are, and how to execute them.

In our recent refinancing post we talked about analyzing when was a good time to refinance our existing loans and which ones we’d target first. Simple advice you can find on the internet is that it’s a good idea to refinance if you plan to keep the property for longer than the result of closing costs divided by monthly payment. Most times this was about 2 years for us. You can see above that the 6% example had a $123 larger monthly payment than the 4% example (30 year term). So if closing costs are $2,000, it would only take 16 months (2000/123=16) to “break even” on a refi to go from a 6% loan to a 4% loan. No brainer!

There’s another hidden benefit there too, that gets missed to make it even shorter than 16 months. Look at the principal portion of the monthly payment. On the 6% example, it’s only $99 on payment 1, but on the 4% example it’s $144. That’s another $45 benefit! You’re paying down the principal at a faster rate. Add that extra principal portion embedded within the monthly payment to the $123 lower payment savings ($123+45=$168) and you get a “break even” point of only 12 months ($2000 closing costs/$168=11.9)!

Understand how your mortgage math works so that you can speak intelligently to a lender, ask good questions, and set yourself up with the best scenario for your finances and your future.