We last purchased a rental property in 2022, after most of our purchasing was done in the the 2019 era. We were busy with 3 kids, and I recently felt like I was coming out of the fog. Mr. ODA and I went to a wealth building seminar in the Spring; my intention was to have that seminar reinvigorate our desire to build our portfolio. It worked well for Mr. ODA, but once options started to show up, I started to panic.
We first went to an open house. It was a bit further away that I’d prefer to maintain a house, and there were a few red flags. For one, it frustrates me that landlords can fill out a seller disclosure claiming they know nothing about the house. I can tell you if I had any roof issues or major system issues in any of my houses, even though I haven’t physically lived there. Mr. ODA wanted to pursue it, but I couldn’t bring myself to get on board.
We were then sitting with his parents one night, telling the story of this open house, and his mom said that she saw a townhouse posted on Facebook that she thought we’d be interested in. It was owned by the son of an old friend of her’s. We asked our real estate agent if she’d show it to us, but she was out of town. So then his mom texted her friend to see if they were there and we could go look. They weren’t there, but they gave us the contractor box code (which is surprising in itself that there wasn’t a sentribox on the door). We went over and the house looked to be in good order, so we put an offer in. We like to surprise our agent with these types of things where all she needs to do is get the contract ratified.
UNDER CONTRACT
The house had been listed for some time when we came across it. It was was listed at $182,500. We offered $182,000 with $2,000 worth of seller subsidy on September 2, 2025. They agreed that day. We ended up needing to redo the contract because the wife wasn’t on the deed of the house, but she had signed the contract, but that wasn’t a big deal.
We had the inspection scheduled for September 10th. There was hardly any issues in the report, and we picked a few of the bigger things to ask for them to fix. They agreed to our list. They gave our agent a receipt showing they had paid someone to fix the items on our list. We did our final walk through the afternoon before closing and were disappointed to find that two of the bigger items (leaks) were not addressed properly and the house was dirty (including things left in the fridge and freezer). Our agent reported that to their agent, and they addressed everything that evening. We swung by the next morning before closing to see it all cleaned up and the leaks addressed.
The appraisal was ordered by our lender and came back at $188,000. That was a pleasant surprise to see we had immediate equity in it.
COMMERCIAL LOAN
We chose to go a commercial loan route. Interest rates aren’t falling as quickly as we expected to see. We have a commercial loan on one of our other properties in town, and I was still surprised to see how easy this process is. The loan qualifications are mostly based on the cash flow of the property. I filled out an application, submitted a ledger of our other property cash flows, and sent in 3 years worth of tax returns.
We were quoted at 6.74% interest. The loan terms are a bit different. Our last commercial loan was amortized over 25 years, but there’s a balloon at 5 years. This time around, it’s amortized over 25 years, but the balloon is at 15 years. A commercial loan also means that the taxes and insurance are not escrowed, and I’m responsible for paying them on my own.
The loan is an Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM) too. There was no different to us in the 3 year or 5 year ARM, so for the first time, we picked a 3 year ARM. In the past, it was related to securing our low rate. This time around, we’re expecting rates to drop in the near future, so we locked in our rate for only 3 years. It only changes on 3 year increments (some of the others will change every year after the initial lock period). It also has a clause that indicates the rate has a floor of 4%. I also don’t see a maximum adjustment that can happen (we have other ARMs that state an adjustment can’t be more than 2% at the change date).
We were expected to put 25% down. That would be $45,500 based on the $182,000 purchase price, and would leave 136,500 worth of a loan. They ran some numbers and determined that we could only qualify for a loan of $132,000 based on a rent of $1,400. They only us the cash flow to determine the eligible amount and not the rest of our portfolio. Let’s break that down to the fact that a loan of $136,500 equates to a monthly loan payment of 942.23, and a loan of $132,000 equates to a monthly payment of 911.17. So at a rent rate of $1,400, we could cover the monthly payment of $911.17, but we could not cover a monthly payment $31.06 higher. We pushed back for a second, but in the end it didn’t matter and we accepted the loan of $132,000.
PROS
When I look at this place, it feels like a place someone will rent. It’s clean, feels like home, and has a good layout. It has a closet available for a washer and dryer, which is a plus. Both bedrooms are upstairs and each has its own bathroom, and there’s a powder room on the main floor. It’s more secluded than other units in the complex, giving the occupant more grass area to hang out in the front and back.
CONS
We do have some concerns. The townhouse is at the back of the neighborhood. The entire rest of the community has parking right outside their front door. This group of 4 townhomes is separated from the parking lot, so you have to walk a bit further. The trade off there is that it’s secluded, you have a front “yard” (instead of pavement), and you’re more secluded from your neighbors.
I didn’t want another townhouse in our portfolio. With a townhouse, your value is strongly dictated by what your neighbors have done (or not done) to the property. As much as we don’t plan to resell these properties in a short time frame, I do have the thought that I want to be able to sell it when the time comes.
Also with a townhouse, you’re also at the whim of a community manager that is likely not putting utmost effort in. We asked about the HOA at closing and the previous owner said the cost used to be $35 per month. When it was that cheap, they weren’t paying their bills, so the lawn wasn’t mowed and the trash wasn’t removed. They increased the price to $95 two or three years ago, and that has made a difference in the community’s upkeep.
The HOA is due monthly, which is an inconvenience and a surprising process on their part. I plan to pay it monthly until I have confidence in their ability to process my payment and apply it to my account timely. After some time, I may pay in advance. I just went to process the first payment and planned to pay 3 months worth, but then realized that will create a harder tracking mechanism on me right now.
CLOSING
We had our closing on October 16th. It was super quick and easy. I listed the house for rent that evening.
SUMMARY
At this point, we have the house listed for rent at $1375. We had determined the range for rent during our purchase evaluation. Unfortunately, I hadn’t looked at the current market by the time we went to list, and there’s quite a bit out there. I’ve shown it to 2 people and have another showing today. One of the people from the weekend said they were seeing other places on Wednesday, so I’ll hold out on any changes to the rent price until this weekend.
I have a tenant who, in the same day, told me that she couldn’t pay rent on time and asked whether she could buy the house. She said she paid $60,000 to me and that could have gone towards owning a house. While I understand the lump sum of what you paid being a pain point, owning a house isn’t that simple. I thought I’d break down a comparison of what she would have done to own this house versus her renting it over the last several years.
RENT HISTORY
Based on the proximity to Main St and the comps in the area, we went into the purchase expecting about $1,000 per month in rent. At the 1% Rule (where you set monthly rent at 1% of your purchase price), we should have been at $1,020. Knowing that it was October/November by the time we would get it rented (there aren’t as many people looking for a new rental in the Fall, after school has started and holiday activities are ramping up) we chose to list it at $975 and keep it below that 4 digit threshold. It sat for 3.5 weeks with hardly any activity, and we dropped it to $875. We found a tenant in under 2 weeks then, but we weren’t thrilled amount our cash flow on it.
The tenant’s lease started on November 1, 2019. Her rent was $875. My property manager incorrectly established a one-year term lease instead of an 18-month lease like she was supposed to, so we had to do a 6-month extension after the first year. Then in March 2021, we tried to increase the rent to $900, and she complained that due to the pandemic, she couldn’t afford that. We let it go and she renewed a year lease at $875.
Come February 2022, we were significantly under market value for rent and she hadn’t been a friendly tenant, so we were content pushing a raise to $950. If she didn’t want to pay that, she was free to leave and we would take the vacancy hit to fix it up and get it re-rented. She complained about the increase, and our property manager told her to take a few days to look around to see if she could find somewhere to rent that was at a price she would feel more comfortable with. She came back and said she couldn’t find anything and accepted the increase to $950.
Not including a few late fees she has owed over the last nearly-five-years, she’s paid us $52,850. While in total that appears to be a significant number, that number does not mean that you’d have $52k in equity in a home had you paid towards a mortgage.
OUR PURCHASE INFORMATION
We paid $102,000 for the house in 2019. We asked for several options for the loan structure. We asked about putting 20% versus 25% down, and whether the rate for a 15 year, 20 year, or 30 year loan would have the best rate. Going through those details is something I’ve done in the past, so for this purpose I’ll just note that we chose to put 25% down because then we didn’t need to “buy down” the rate. The rate for each loan length was 4.55%. With no incentive to do a shorter loan term (and therefore increase our monthly payment), we chose the 30 year term. I do want to note that our interest rate is higher than the average for 2019 (3.9%) because it was an investment property and not a loan for a primary residence.
Based on the 25% down and the closing costs, we had to come to the table with $26,589.12.
Our mortgage was $538.46, which includes escrow. We paid off this loan fairly soon after we closed on it, so we don’t have a monthly mortgage payment. However, I do need to plan for our current mortgage and insurance payments each year, which is currently over $2,000.
FACTORS TO CONSIDER
To keep this more consistent in the message, note that the loan discussed will be based on the purchase price of $102,000.
First, you need to have favorable credit to qualify for the mortgage. In an example, the lowest credit score I could plug in was 620. However, in much of what I’ve read, anything below 680 is questionable on qualification. Our requirement to rent a property is to have a credit score of 600. Perhaps there are lenders that will process a mortgage if your credit score is below 620, but you’re going to pay a premium via the interest rate.
With a credit score of 780, say you’ll have a rate of 6%. But then with a score of 680, you’re looking at 6.5%. At 6%, your principal and interest payment (doesn’t include the escrow required) would be $599.19. At 6.5%, it goes to $631.69. That’s only $32.50 per month extra; over 30 years, that’s an extra $11,700 paid to the bank. I have some tenants where an extra $32 per month is a big deal.
Without at least 20% down on a loan, you’ll likely have to pay private mortgage insurance (PMI). This amount could add a monthly premium to your mortgage payment anywhere from 0.2% to 6%. I did a quick calculator with the example of $102,000 purchase price, $3,060 down (typically the lowest available without any special loan structures is 3%), and a credit score of 620 (lowest it allowed). The PMI was calculated as $187 each month.
I mentioned that our final closing costs were over $26k. If I remove our down payment, that leaves $1,089 in closing costs. I will note though, that our contract had $2,000 in seller subsidy (a credit). Without that purchase agreement structure, that means your closing costs are actually $3,089. This means that you need to come to the table with $6,149. Buying a house is not like buying a car where you can roll all the costs into the loan, and I feel like people don’t realize this.
Your debt to income ratio also plays a factor in whether you can qualify and what your interest rate would be. So even with a decent credit score, you need to show a low debt-to-income ratio, meaning you can’t have your credit cards maxed out. The lender wants to see that you don’t have high monthly costs that would prevent you from paying your mortgage.
That brings me to the flexibility of paying rent. She paid $475 worth of August rent (due August 1st, with a grace period to August 5th before a late fee is owed) on August 20th. If you pay your mortgage late, there’s a late fee and it gets reported to the credit bureaus. Your late payment of rent doesn’t get reported to anyone. She also has the extra advantage that I’m willing to work with her on late payments. An apartment complex type owner is going to immediately file for eviction on the 6th without full rent payment, regardless of your story.
SUMMARY
While a mortgage payment of $538.46 looks favorable against a rent payment of $950, it’s not that simple. I was able to qualify for the mortgage, qualify for a favorable interest rate, and put significant money down.
If I add a premium to the rate we were able to get, assuming my tenant’s credit score is similar to what it was when she rented our house, and then add the PMI that would be applied by not having 20% down, then the mortgage payment (including escrow) would have been $903.02. PMI stays on the mortgage until you reach 78% loan to value ratio (unless you pay for an appraisal and can prove 80% earlier than that). That threshold in this example is $79,560. That principal balance would be achieved in over 11 years, which means you’ve paid $25,058 for essentially nothing.
Then on top of paying these premiums for the mortgage, she would need to pay for the maintenance of the property herself, which is included in my rent factors. I’ve paid over $3,000 for repairs and maintenance on the house over the last 5 years (which is fairly low). However, that includes a deck replacement that we did ourselves and probably would have cost $4,000 instead of the $400 we paid in materials.
So the next time you think that you could be paying half of your rent with a loan, know that you’re not looking at the whole story. There are many factors that go into a mortgage, especially the initial ability to qualify for such loan.
While the housing market has cooled some since I started this post in the Spring, there are still some areas that are moving quickly and aggressively, and this information is still helpful regardless of you being in a multiple offer scenario. Over the course of 6 years and 18 properties purchased (and countless offers made), we’ve caught on to some helpful parts of contracts. Again, keep in mind that I’ve seen real estate contracts in New York, Virginia, and Kentucky; this is not all encompassing or what may work perfectly in your market. This also doesn’t include all parts of a contract since most of them are standard and/or can’t be anything but matter-of-fact (e.g., will the property be owner occupied; is the property subject to a homeowner’s association).
BASICS
Your contract is going to encompass the basics of the purchase each time. This would be the buyer and seller names, address of the property, offer price, and closing date.
Typically, the buyer’s agent draws up the contract with the information being offered. If the offer is accepted by the seller, the seller signs the contract. If there are negotiations, the buyer’s agent will adjust, have the buyer re-sign, and then submit to the seller for signature. When the buyer makes the offer (which is just filling out the contract and sending it to the seller), the buyer will typically include an expiration date of the offer. This isn’t always enacted, but it’s there as a protection so the buyer isn’t sitting idle for extended periods of time waiting for a seller to make a decision. For example, we had an expiration clause in a contract recently where our offer expired at 8 pm that night, but we knew they weren’t going to review offers until the end of the weekend; we had put it in there as a way to hopefully push the seller to make a decision with just our offer instead of waiting for more offers to roll in. We ended up getting the contract on the house, even though our expiration date had technically expired.
In Virginia, the closing date language says “on or before X date, or a reasonable time thereafter.” In Kentucky, it says “on or before X date,” and if you can’t close by that date, you and the buyer have to process an addendum to the contract with a new closing date. We had a contract, as the seller in Virginia, close 2 months after the date in the contract. We were furious about that. We could have walked away and kept the buyer’s earnest money deposit, but then we’d have to formally list (it was an off market deal) and manage that process along with the home inspection issues that may arise. We also had a contract in Kentucky where our lender messed up and delayed our closing, so we had to sign an addendum to the contract to allow us to close a week late.
EARNEST MONEY DEPOSIT (EMD)
Earnest money, or good faith deposit, is a sum of money you put down to demonstrate your seriousness about buying a home. In most cases, earnest money acts as a deposit on the property you’re looking to buy. You deliver the amount when signing the purchase agreement or the sales contract, and it’s applied to your balance owed at closing.
This is not a requirement, but it’s showing your “good faith” to purchase the property because there’s a penalty to you if you try to walk away from the purchase.
In most cases, you pay the EMD to your realtor’s office and they hold it until closing. In Kentucky, they’re on it right away, asking you to send the check as soon as the contract is signed. In Virginia, I didn’t always send the EMD. The amount is listed in the contract, so if I were to default on the contract as a buyer, I would still owe that amount even though I hadn’t paid it to my realtor’s office.
Typically, you’re looking to put 1% down. On a $90k purchase, we gave an EMD of $900. On a purchase of $438k, we gave an EMD of $5,000 (but there were other factors at play as to why we went higher than 1% on that, which I’ll cover later).
CONTINGENCIES
Some items we’ve seen in our contracts are options for the buyer to back out of the contract, or a contingency.
Financing
A sale can be subject to financing. If it’s not an all-cash offer, and there will be a loan secured to purchase the property, data can be entered to protect the buyer’s interests. Typically, it’s going to list the years of the loan to be secured (e.g., 30 year conventional), a downpayment amount, and a maximum interest rate. The interest rates hadn’t been fluctuating much, but this would play into things in the past few months. If you tried to purchase a home when the prevailing interest rate was about 4%, and then interest rates rose to 5.5%, it may affect your ability to qualify for the loan or put you outside a comfort zone for your monthly payment amount. For example, on a $250,000 loan at 4%, your monthly payment is about $1200 per month (principal and interest); if the rate raises to 5.5%, your monthly payment becomes $1420 per month.
This information does not lock you into that break down. If the contract says 80%, and you decide to put 25% down based on the rate sheet, the contract isn’t changed nor is it voided.
Appraisal
If the sale is subject to financing, then it has to be subject to the appraisal. This is a lender requirement to protect their interests. There are some caveats to this, but I will cover them later since they’re more advanced. An appraisal will cost the buyer in the realm of $450-600.
If you’re attempting to qualify based on rental property income, the lender may require you to pay for a rental appraisal as well. We’ve seen this cost at an additional $150, but we’ve typically been able to negotiate our way out of that by providing leases and income history.
Home Inspection
This is one that I almost always recommend including in your offer. This is your “out” in almost every situation. If you get a home inspection, and it finds anything, you can walk away from the contract and not lose your EMD. If a house is important enough to you (a personal residence that you want regardless of what you find on an inspection report), you may eliminate this contingency, but you’ll typically include it. You can even include that you’ll do a home inspection and decide to not do it.
If the house is being sold as-is, it doesn’t mean you can’t get a home inspection. You can still get the inspection to know whether you want to move forward with the purchase. Being sold as-is just tells the buyer that the seller is not willing to negotiate price or fixing items if the home inspection finds something.
The buyer is responsible for the cost of the home inspection. We’ve paid between $300 and $650 for it. The inspector will take about 2 hours to look through the house, including the roof and mechanical parts behind the scenes. Sometimes the inspector will say “this doesn’t look right, but you need to consult a professional in that trade,” which is usually what happens when it comes to roofing. We have done a home inspection, found too many issues to manage (e.g., stairs built out of code) and walked away from the contract. In that scenario, we don’t lose our EMD, but we did pay about $500 for “nothing” (unless you count all the savings of not throwing money into the house to make it safe and livable).
If you find items on the home inspection that you don’t or can’t fix yourself, and the house isn’t being sold as-is, you can request the seller address them. An addendum to the contract will be filed to identify what the seller agrees to fix, and professional receipts have to be supplied before closing to satisfy the requirement. A seller may say they don’t want to be bothered with coordinating the trades to fix the items and offer financial compensation (e.g., we project the cost of these fixes to be $1000, so we’ll take $1000 off the purchase price).
In the realm of “the contract can say almost anything you want,” here’s an example of an additional term that was in one of our contracts. On this particular house, we should have walked away. The closing process was a nightmare because the seller hadn’t paid the electric bill, so we should have known that them wanting a free pass on inspection items was a red flag.
Virginia has a clause to protect the seller’s ability to walk away from the contract in the event of drastic home inspection repair costs.
Wood Destroying Insects (WDI)
A WDI is basically your termite inspection (may include carpenter bees, ants, etc.). We learned with our very first home purchase that this inspection is pretty useless. You can teach yourself what outward signs to look for regarding termite damage. It’s a visual inspection of what the technician can see. But the damage caused by WDIs is behind the drywall. If there’s signs of WDIs outside the studs of the walls, you’ll see it, and that means you have a big problem. Pay the $35 for a professional to say there are signs of active termites.
Another way we found that the WDI is useless is that we had a major termite problem in our house. We were paying for treatment when we sold the house. The treatments weren’t working and the next step was pulling up all the flooring in the basement and treating under the foundation ($$$). The termite company wrote their report: There is an active infestation of termites that are actively being treated. Technically, true. Productively, not the whole picture.
‘ADVANCED’ CONTRACT OPTIONS
I don’t know that these are necessarily advanced, but they’re less common options when making an offer. Some of them come in handy at opportune times, so it’s helpful to know the options at your disposal.
Seller Subsidy
The seller subsidy is the seller’s contribution to closing costs. It reduces the seller’s bottom line based on the offer amount, and it reduces the amount of money the buyer needs to bring to the settlement table. If a contract offer is $102,000 purchase price with $2,000 seller subsidy, then the seller’s bottom line is $100,000.
There is a limit of how much seller subsidy can be in a contract, which is based on the lender’s requirements and is typically 2% of the purchase price. We have had to adjust the contract to account for this limit before we were aware of it; we kept the seller’s bottom line the same, but adjusted the numbers so that we could maximize the seller subsidy.
In Virginia contracts, there’s a boiler plate section identifying the possibility of seller subsidy. In Kentucky, it has to be written into the additional terms section.
Escalation Clause
If you’re in a multiple offer scenario, it may be helpful to offer with an escalation clause. This is an option that a prospective buyer may include to raise their offer on a home should the seller receive a higher competing offer. The buyer will include a cap for how high the offer may go. It’s essentially a way for the buyer to compete with other offers, but not necessarily pay top dollar for the house.
Most recently, our offer was $420,000 and we were told there were at least 4 other offers. We added an escalation clause to our offer. We decided to make it a strange number (e.g., increase by $1770 at a time), and we capped it around $450,000. We were basically saying that we were willing to pay up to $450,000 for the house, but we didn’t have to commit to that number by making our offer at $450,000. The highest offer outside of our offer was about $436k, so our escalation of $1770 over highest offer got us the house for about $438k.
AppraisalGap Clause
As mentioned, a home purchase with financing is going to be subject to an appraisal. With the housing market exploding purchase prices in the last couple of years, houses have been selling for well over list price. This is nice in theory, but that doesn’t mean that a bank is going to agree that your purchase price is “fair market value.” If your contract is for $500,000, but the home values in the area only support $420,000, the bank is not going to give you a loan based on $500,000. Either the seller has to agree to accept the lower purchase price, end the contract and start over with the listing, or the buyer has to agree to pay the difference in value in cash. A gap clause is preemptive attempt to address this difference between the contract price and the potentially lower appraisal price.
If the buyer believes that the area’s home prices will support a purchase price of about $450,000, but they want to make an offer of $500,000, the buyer may include a gap clause of $50,000. This means that the buyer is more attractive to the seller because the seller’s risk of the contract falling through after the appraisal comes back is minimized. This also means that a buyer would have to be able to show the lender that they have the cash to cover the gap clause needed (if needed), the down payment, and the closing costs.
We used a gap clause on our most recent purchase. The list price was $415,000. I was confident that an appraisal would cover up to $425k, but I didn’t see many comparable sales higher than that without venturing into different neighborhoods. We offered, with an escalation clause, up to about $450,000. Since we weren’t sure that the appraisal would go that high, we offered a gap clause of $25,000. Our final purchase price was $438k, and the lender waived an appraisal need, so our gap clause wasn’t enacted.
RANDOM CLAUSES
I mentioned that a contract can almost say whatever you want. Here are a couple of examples of protections we put in an offer that had to be satisfied within the term given or we could walk away from the deal with no penalty.
SELLER THOUGHT PROCESS
The seller’s comfort comes into play when you’re in a multiple offer scenario. A buyer can make an offer saying almost anything they want (within reason of a residential real estate transaction). You can manipulate your offer to show the seller how vested you are in the purchase. Sometimes a seller just cares about the bottom line numbers, but sometimes (like if you’re competing with a similar offer), a few tweaks to your offer may make you more desirable.
I mentioned that we went higher than 1% on our EMD for our personal residence purchase. We wanted to show that we were very interested in the property, so one way to do that is to show that we have a lot of “skin in the game.” If we default on this contract, we’re out $5,000 and getting nothing. Whereas, when we’re purchasing a rental property without emotion, if it doesn’t go through, it doesn’t go. Sticking to about 1% is showing that we’re “checking the box,” but not that we’ll do anything and everything to make sure this deal goes through. We would still be out some money and get nothing if we walked from a contract without enacting a contingency, so the higher EMD you include, the more serious you appear.
A seller may not understand the big picture of providing the subsidy, so that could be risky. If a seller sees that they’re contributing to $2,000 of your closing costs, they may balk at it. Hopefully, they have a realtor on their end that can explain “think of your offer as $100,000 instead of $102,000.”
Eliminating a home inspection may make a seller feel more comfortable too. They may know of some issues in the house and are waiting for the “shoe to drop” through the inspection process, so it could eliminate a stressor for them. I wouldn’t recommend eliminating a home inspection unless you’re confident there aren’t any fatal flaws in the house (e.g., quarter width cracks in the foundation, wet marks on the ceiling, warped/sunken flooring).
The housing market has slowed down, so some of the out-of-the-norm clauses may no longer be worth the buyer’s risk just to compete for a house, but these are some options out there. The general concepts still apply, like when to pay for extra inspections or to expect financing and an appraisal to go together. Know that everything is a negotiation and don’t feel stuck in a contract if red flags are flying.
A HELOC is a line of credit secured by the equity in your home. This is different from a loan or mortgage.
What is equity? It’s the appraised value of your home that is not mortgaged. You may have put 20% down when you bought the house, and now you’re looking to tap into that equity along with the principal of the mortgage you’ve paid down. Or perhaps your home value has increased drastically, and you want to utilize the equity.
What is a line of credit? It is a revolving account of credit. This means that when you close on a HELOC, you don’t get a check cut for that amount right then. You need to “draw” on the account, as needed, which is essentially writing checks from that account to either yourself or another entity. As you make principal payments, the amount of principal becomes available again for a future draw, as long as you’re within the draw period of the line of credit.
Do you have to disclose the purpose of the HELOC? There are no parameters on what you can use the money for when you draw it from the HELOC. You may want to pay off a credit card that has a higher interest rate, do home improvements, do other construction projects, medical bills, etc. While you’d want to utilize this for larger purchases, you can draw smaller amounts as long as you draw the minimum required by your terms (e.g., no less than $100). You earn interest from day 1, so this isn’t more beneficial than a credit card that gives you a short-term “loan” for your statement period (you don’t pay interest on a credit card balance that is paid off by the due date).
TYPICAL TERMS
The application process is similar to applying for a mortgage. A bank wants to see your credit report, along with some backup documentation (e.g., tax returns, account statements). We also had to update our homeowners insurance to show the HELOC as a mortgagee.
A HELOC will typically only cover a portion of the equity in your home, depending on the bank’s terms. If your appraisal value is $400,000, and your mortgage balance is $250,000, then the equity in your home is $150,000. While there may be instances where a bank would approve a HELOC for the full amount of $150,000, most are going to approve 80% or 85% of that amount.
There are no closing costs associated with the HELOC. Typically, the bank processing the HELOC will cover the costs associated with the line of credit initiation up front. However, they will require those fees to be paid back to them if the HELOC is closed within a certain period of time (usually 36 months). For our first HELOC, when we closed it within the 36 months, we paid back a prorated amount of the fees (e.g., if the fees were $300, and we closed it after a year, we owed $200). For our current HELOC, if we close it within the 36 months, we’re required to pay back 100% of the fees they covered, not the prorated amount.
A HELOC has a variable interest rate, which may adjust monthly or quarterly based on the lender’s terms. A variable interest rate can adjust up or down. But this is something to be aware of because it’s not like a loan or mortgage that has a fixed rate made known up front. The rate, in our case, is set at the index rate with a margin. However, there’s a floor to the bank’s rate. What does this look like? The index rate is 3.50%. The margin is -1.00%. However, the bank’s floor is 3.00%. Therefore, even though 3.5-1=2.5, the minimum interest rate they’ll lend at is 3.00%. Therefore, our current rate is 3.00%.
There is a “draw period,” which means you can only take funds from the line of credit for a certain period of time (e.g., 10 years). When you do draw from the line of credit, you’re charged interest on the principal balance. During the draw period, you must make the minimum required monthly payments on the account, which is typically the monthly accumulated interest owed, but some banks may require principal payments during this period also. When the draw period is over, it enacts the principal repayment period, meaning you have a certain amount of time (e.g., 10 more years) to repay the principal balance of the HELOC. There is no charge for the HELOC existing though; it can be there and never drawn on.
OUR PROCESS
The most recent HELOC we closed on had a different process than the first. We expressed our interest, and since they already had our documentation on hand from a commercial loan, they didn’t ask for supporting documentation (e.g., account statements). However, for some strange reason, she said she couldn’t use the credit report from our commercial loan, and she had to pull our credit again. At the time we were applying for another mortgage, so the hit on our credit counted as “mortgage shopping,” so we gave up the fight and let it happen.
This company would have given us 100% of the equity available in our home. However, two weeks after initiating the HELOC process, we told them we needed a pre qualification letter for an offer we made on another personal residence. They then told us that since we’re on record as wanting to sell our home, they would only approve 80% of the equity.
The loan officer asked for two references for each of us. There was no information given on what this personal reference had to know about us. We both handed over our people, but they were never contacted, so we won’t know the purpose.
Finally, they asked for our homeowners insurance to show them as a mortgagee on our policy, which I was able to do with one quick phone call to that office.
Typically, the process will include an appraisal. This bank had a valuation system that they used. Based on this woman’s inputs into the system (which were all wrong), she said that she could approve us for $100,000 without paying for a full appraisal. We don’t need more than that, so that was sufficient to us.
We closed the HELOC a month after expressing interest. Our process may have been slower than the typical period it would take because we were fighting the credit pull for a while (not to mention the company we were working with is notoriously slow at responding to inquiries). Mr. ODA expressed our interest in pursuing the HELOC on April 12th. We were cleared to close as of May 11th, but we chose to close on that following Friday. We went to a local bank branch, and a relationship banker went through the documents with us as we signed them.
WHY THE HELOC FOR US?
My general plan was that we’d have a HELOC initiated, so that when we found a new personal residence, we could use the HELOC for the down payment of that house without having to sell our current house first. In the past, we’ve sold our home, went into temporary housing, and then moved into a new home. Granted, all our past home purchases were in a completely different locale than where we were living, but I really didn’t want to manage storage of goods or go into temporary housing with two kids and a dog again.
We initiated the conversation on the HELOC without having any intent to move yet. Not to go into too much detail on this topic, but we need to be residents of this house for two years to avoid paying capital gains. Our 2-year mark isn’t until November, so we weren’t in a rush to move before then. A home with the same floor plan around the block from us sold for $190k more than what we bought this house for less than two years ago, so we expect there to be a hefty chunk going to capital gains if we don’t meet the two year requirement.
I was keeping an eye on the market, but clearly had no plans to move. To me, a regular check on Zillow lets me know what I can get for my money. However, there are some things related to our current personal residence that are concerning, and we had decided that this wouldn’t be a long term location for us. With the market right now, I knew we’d either be paying a higher mortgage than I ever anticipated in life, or I’d be compromising on my wish list. Well, a house that met a lot of our wish list popped up in the area we liked for less than $500k, so we jumped on it. The house needs work, so even though we’ll close on it over the summer, we aren’t in a rush to move into a construction zone.
Once we close on the new house with funds from the HELOC, we’ll start accruing and paying interest on the balance. We’re not required to make principal payments until after the draw period, which is 10 years. When we eventually sell our current home, the proceeds from the sale will pay off the HELOC seamlessly through the closing process.
In March 2020, as we all know, a pandemic hit. Well, our second child came into the world at the end of March, just a week after lock down. My family lives in NY, and Mr. ODA’s family lives in KY. So living in VA left us without family, with limited visits, and only seeing some neighbors while hanging out in yards and the street, but no child care or help.
We had talked about officially moving to KY while we spent the summer of 2019 there for Mr. ODA’s work assignment, but we decided it wasn’t the right time. We loved our neighborhood and town back home, and we just weren’t ready to leave. Mr. ODA was offered a promotion in DC at the same time, and that sealed the deal for us to stay in VA. The cost of living in NY near my family (Long Island), along with the crowded lifestyle, was not something we wished to pursue after experienced a ‘taste’ of the traffic and crowds when we lived by DC, which is why ‘moving near family’ meant KY.
On a walk one night in June 2020, Mr. ODA mentioned moving to KY again. He was working from home indefinitely, so there wasn’t anything holding us to VA (except my Ob and the kids’ pediatrician…. gosh it was hard for me to leave them!). At this point, isolated from most people because of the pandemic, the logic was there to make the move. Additionally, our mortgage was a 5/1 ARM that was coming due in January, so selling our house a few months before that was great timing.
LISTING OUR HOUSE
We built our house and moved in at the beginning of January 2016. For a new house, we had a lot of little projects that had to be completed before we could have people walk through it. When we sold our first house, we put a lot of our things into our neighbor’s basement as storage. This time around, we had to do the same, but without a neighbor’s basement as help.
There were the typical paint touchups, wiping baseboards, and moving of furniture. There were just several small projects that needed attended to (like replacing burnt out light bulbs and buying a comforter that fit our new bed), which took me about two weeks before we could get the pictures done for the listing.
We had one room that was the catch-all for mismatched furniture. We were told to give the room a purpose. I was able to get the exercise bike, desk, bed, and bookshelf to live harmoniously.
For pictures, we chose to keep a full-size bed in one of the bedrooms, but I quickly changed it to our daughter’s crib. We were afraid that if people saw a crib, they’d think the room was too small for a bed. So while, functionally, I needed that crib, I didn’t mind if they saw it during the walk through because they could refer back to the listing photos to see the bed there instead.
SOLD QUICKER THAN PLANNED
It’s hard to manage the expectation of how long the house will be on the market against how long to wait for listing it. We knew our new house wasn’t going to be ready until November. I was too afraid to wait until everyone went back to school, especially with all the uncertainty of what school would look like. I pushed to list mid-August (central VA goes back to school after Labor Day).
We were under contract at the end of the first weekend listed. They asked for a 3 week close, and we denied that. There was no incentive for us to move that quickly. We asked how long they’d be willing to push it, and they agreed to 30 days because they’d be living in a hotel with their family of 5. That was exactly 7 weeks between leaving our house and our new house being ready.
We decided to seize the opportunity and travel with that time. Since Mr. ODA was working remotely anyway, we could explore new places where he could work during the week from our hotel or AirBnB. I had one rule – there had to be two separate sleep areas because our 6 month old required her room to be pitch black for sleep, and messing with a baby’s sleep hurts mama! Our options are also limited because we have a dog.
Here’s how we had to unpack and repack the car each time!
Week 1 – We went to the beach! We grabbed a beautiful little AirBnB in Norfolk, two blocks from a little beach and boardwalk. I took the kids to the zoo one day, and we played at the school playground across the street a bunch.
Week 2 – We went back to our old neighborhood and imposed on some friends. Our daughter had her 6 month pediatrician appointment, and I wasn’t about to give up an opportunity to see our wonderful doctor again. Their family has kids the same age as ours, but their youngest was still sleeping in the parents’ room, which left his crib available to our youngest. As a bonus, they went on vacation for the week! As a form of payment for our time there, I painted their first floor. I love to paint, so I enjoyed having an activity. Our oldest got sick at the beginning of the week and his fever wasn’t breaking, so we ended up at the doctor 3 times with an eventual ear infection diagnosis. Him being sick delayed my progress, but I got it all done.
Week 3 – Bristol VA and TN. Mr. ODA took more time off during this week so that we could go hiking and explore the area more. It’s beautiful down there.
Week 4 to 7 – We went to KY to stay with Mr. ODA’s parents. By the time I got there, I wasn’t leaving until we moved into our new house. It was a lot to pack up the car, unload it all, keep it organized, live with the minimum for the two kids, and then pack it all back up again. I ended up cancelling two of our trips that we had planned. I kept one where we went back to our old neighborhood for Halloween. I wanted our oldest to play with his friend for the holiday, but then we didn’t even really see them. Our youngest had her flu vaccine booster that weekend too.
In hindsight, our quick decision to move was great timing. We knew there were bidding wars happening over real estate (our Realtor fielded 16 offers on a home in Richmond, VA the same weekend we listed!), but we didn’t know it was going to get as bad as it has where inventory is so low and house prices climbed. While we may have been able to get more for our house a month or so later, we wouldn’t have found many options for what we wanted in KY.
House prices in KY are about 8% higher than this time last year, and our area’s housing prices are 11% higher, according to Zillow. Example: Our neighbor was under contract to purchase his house in July. They had a new job offer come in, and they sold their house earlier this month for $55k more than they purchased it. That’s a 14% increase in less than a year.
One Dollar Allowance 