interest

Rental Cost Changes

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In November 2023, I posted about rental changes that had occurred over the previous year. I wanted to update that analysis a few months ago, but I didn’t have all the KY data. I recently shared that my rent increases aren’t covering my cost increases, and my portfolio’s cash projections are lower now than when we first purchased all the houses. Here’s more of a breakdown of those changes per house.

ESCROW

Escrow is an account that your mortgage company holds money to pay your insurance and taxes on your behalf. I have little faith in their management, as I’ve had to follow up on balances in the account and payments made incorrectly.

I created this table to show the differences between escrow payments over the two years. I kept the houses that don’t have an escrow because it can be compared to a future table in this post. There is no House5 in this table because we sold it several years ago (houses didn’t get renumbered because House5 still exists in terms of tax documentation).

INSURANCE

We had 3 insurance claims last year, and a big one the year before. It turns out, our portfolio is looked at as a whole, so 4 claims in a 12 month period doesn’t look good, especially when one of those was 6 digits and one was 5 digits. None of it was egregious, and they were each necessary. We were just a victim of poor timing (and for some reason, the 12 years prior to that with 0 claims of any kind mean absolutely nothing). While our own history is to blame in some aspects, insurance costs as a whole are increasing quickly over the few years. Here’s Google’s AI response:

And with that between payments made in 2023 and payments made in 2024, insurance is costing us almost $2,000 more for the year. I also just made my first 2025 payment, which increased that one house by $343. The total increase from 2022 and 2024 is over $3,000.

From the initiation of insurance on each house (so, when we first bought the house, which were mostly between 2015/2016) to today, we’re paying over 43% more in total for insurance.

TAXES

The table below shows the change between 2023 and 2024 for our tax payments. Last year, many jurisdictions that hadn’t captured the assessment changes since the pandemic made up for it last year, when we saw about a $3,500 increase for the year. This year, our increase was over $2,000. Fifty-five hundred over two years is nearly $230 per month, spread over 13 rental properties is $17 each. So for those that I didn’t increase rent last year, they’re not capturing that cost increase for our portfolio.

RENT INCREASES

So far this year, I’ve missed two opportunities to increase rent. I had planned on increasing one house by $25 to keep up with inflation costs, but it didn’t register that their notice had to be given by 1/1 (every one else is by the end of the month). The second is above market at this time, which was by design since they’re not easy to work with (tried to phase them out, but they accepted the rent increase). We last raised their rent in September 2022, so it’s been two years. But I couldn’t bring myself to do it. Next year we’ll increase them by $50 per month.

My plan is to increase the rent for 5 of our other houses. Four of these houses are planned to be $50 per month of an increase, and one is planned to be $75. Our management is generally to increase rent by $50 every two years if you’re a long term renter. There have been a few that we didn’t increase for a while, and the carrying costs have drastically increased, so we’re behind now.

SUMMARY

For our cost increases between taxes and insurance, we have over $4,000 that was paid out last year (and it’s really more than that in cases where the house has escrow, so our escrow was increased more drastically that the specific amount of change in bills).

We had 3 houses turnover from long term tenants, so we were able to increase the rent to market value. I prioritize keeping long term tenants, so I don’t always do rent increases. That means that sometimes the rent is stuck below market value, but I’d rather keep a good tenant than push them out with large annual rent increases.

By bringing those houses up to market rent, I’ve made up a good amount of our deficit. Now remember, these rent increases are catching up on multiple years of drastic increases. So even though it seems we’ve brought in more, we’re both making up for previous years that didn’t have such large rent increases and paying for more large scale improvements to these houses, in addition to larger contractor costs.

Buying versus Renting

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I have a tenant who, in the same day, told me that she couldn’t pay rent on time and asked whether she could buy the house. She said she paid $60,000 to me and that could have gone towards owning a house. While I understand the lump sum of what you paid being a pain point, owning a house isn’t that simple. I thought I’d break down a comparison of what she would have done to own this house versus her renting it over the last several years.

RENT HISTORY

Based on the proximity to Main St and the comps in the area, we went into the purchase expecting about $1,000 per month in rent. At the 1% Rule (where you set monthly rent at 1% of your purchase price), we should have been at $1,020. Knowing that it was October/November by the time we would get it rented (there aren’t as many people looking for a new rental in the Fall, after school has started and holiday activities are ramping up) we chose to list it at $975 and keep it below that 4 digit threshold. It sat for 3.5 weeks with hardly any activity, and we dropped it to $875. We found a tenant in under 2 weeks then, but we weren’t thrilled amount our cash flow on it.

The tenant’s lease started on November 1, 2019. Her rent was $875. My property manager incorrectly established a one-year term lease instead of an 18-month lease like she was supposed to, so we had to do a 6-month extension after the first year. Then in March 2021, we tried to increase the rent to $900, and she complained that due to the pandemic, she couldn’t afford that. We let it go and she renewed a year lease at $875.

Come February 2022, we were significantly under market value for rent and she hadn’t been a friendly tenant, so we were content pushing a raise to $950. If she didn’t want to pay that, she was free to leave and we would take the vacancy hit to fix it up and get it re-rented. She complained about the increase, and our property manager told her to take a few days to look around to see if she could find somewhere to rent that was at a price she would feel more comfortable with. She came back and said she couldn’t find anything and accepted the increase to $950.

Not including a few late fees she has owed over the last nearly-five-years, she’s paid us $52,850. While in total that appears to be a significant number, that number does not mean that you’d have $52k in equity in a home had you paid towards a mortgage.

OUR PURCHASE INFORMATION

We paid $102,000 for the house in 2019. We asked for several options for the loan structure. We asked about putting 20% versus 25% down, and whether the rate for a 15 year, 20 year, or 30 year loan would have the best rate. Going through those details is something I’ve done in the past, so for this purpose I’ll just note that we chose to put 25% down because then we didn’t need to “buy down” the rate. The rate for each loan length was 4.55%. With no incentive to do a shorter loan term (and therefore increase our monthly payment), we chose the 30 year term. I do want to note that our interest rate is higher than the average for 2019 (3.9%) because it was an investment property and not a loan for a primary residence.

Based on the 25% down and the closing costs, we had to come to the table with $26,589.12.

Our mortgage was $538.46, which includes escrow. We paid off this loan fairly soon after we closed on it, so we don’t have a monthly mortgage payment. However, I do need to plan for our current mortgage and insurance payments each year, which is currently over $2,000.

FACTORS TO CONSIDER

To keep this more consistent in the message, note that the loan discussed will be based on the purchase price of $102,000.

First, you need to have favorable credit to qualify for the mortgage. In an example, the lowest credit score I could plug in was 620. However, in much of what I’ve read, anything below 680 is questionable on qualification. Our requirement to rent a property is to have a credit score of 600. Perhaps there are lenders that will process a mortgage if your credit score is below 620, but you’re going to pay a premium via the interest rate.

With a credit score of 780, say you’ll have a rate of 6%. But then with a score of 680, you’re looking at 6.5%. At 6%, your principal and interest payment (doesn’t include the escrow required) would be $599.19. At 6.5%, it goes to $631.69. That’s only $32.50 per month extra; over 30 years, that’s an extra $11,700 paid to the bank. I have some tenants where an extra $32 per month is a big deal.

Without at least 20% down on a loan, you’ll likely have to pay private mortgage insurance (PMI). This amount could add a monthly premium to your mortgage payment anywhere from 0.2% to 6%. I did a quick calculator with the example of $102,000 purchase price, $3,060 down (typically the lowest available without any special loan structures is 3%), and a credit score of 620 (lowest it allowed). The PMI was calculated as $187 each month.

I mentioned that our final closing costs were over $26k. If I remove our down payment, that leaves $1,089 in closing costs. I will note though, that our contract had $2,000 in seller subsidy (a credit). Without that purchase agreement structure, that means your closing costs are actually $3,089. This means that you need to come to the table with $6,149. Buying a house is not like buying a car where you can roll all the costs into the loan, and I feel like people don’t realize this.

Your debt to income ratio also plays a factor in whether you can qualify and what your interest rate would be. So even with a decent credit score, you need to show a low debt-to-income ratio, meaning you can’t have your credit cards maxed out. The lender wants to see that you don’t have high monthly costs that would prevent you from paying your mortgage.

That brings me to the flexibility of paying rent. She paid $475 worth of August rent (due August 1st, with a grace period to August 5th before a late fee is owed) on August 20th. If you pay your mortgage late, there’s a late fee and it gets reported to the credit bureaus. Your late payment of rent doesn’t get reported to anyone. She also has the extra advantage that I’m willing to work with her on late payments. An apartment complex type owner is going to immediately file for eviction on the 6th without full rent payment, regardless of your story.

SUMMARY

While a mortgage payment of $538.46 looks favorable against a rent payment of $950, it’s not that simple. I was able to qualify for the mortgage, qualify for a favorable interest rate, and put significant money down.

If I add a premium to the rate we were able to get, assuming my tenant’s credit score is similar to what it was when she rented our house, and then add the PMI that would be applied by not having 20% down, then the mortgage payment (including escrow) would have been $903.02. PMI stays on the mortgage until you reach 78% loan to value ratio (unless you pay for an appraisal and can prove 80% earlier than that). That threshold in this example is $79,560. That principal balance would be achieved in over 11 years, which means you’ve paid $25,058 for essentially nothing.

Then on top of paying these premiums for the mortgage, she would need to pay for the maintenance of the property herself, which is included in my rent factors. I’ve paid over $3,000 for repairs and maintenance on the house over the last 5 years (which is fairly low). However, that includes a deck replacement that we did ourselves and probably would have cost $4,000 instead of the $400 we paid in materials.

So the next time you think that you could be paying half of your rent with a loan, know that you’re not looking at the whole story. There are many factors that go into a mortgage, especially the initial ability to qualify for such loan.

2023 in Review: Net Worth

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A few years ago, I set out on this journey. I wanted to talk about money so that people would start talking about money. Talking about money is taboo. Someone will act funny talking about what they bought their house for, yet it’s public record that can be found in 2 seconds. People act like it’s “cool” to say they’re broke, as if it’s a badge of honor. I want people to talk about their spending and find ways to move forward so that money isn’t controlling their life.

In addition to that general goal, I’m also sharing lessons learned as we navigate owning rental properties. I hope that information helps both landlords (including potential ones) and tenants. I want tenants to understand the work that goes into owning the house and renting it to someone, and how the statement, “I can own a house for less than rent” doesn’t get you very far because you’re not the one maintaining the rental.

At the end of 2022, I was in the process of moving to a new home, renovating the new home, and was very pregnant with two toddlers nipping at my heels. My posts were just the monthly financial updates (and I didn’t even get to a December post because our baby was a sick little one). It was always in the back of my mind to make a post, but I didn’t have the bandwidth. It took until the last day of June for me to get my feet under me and start posting again. A few years ago, I tried to post twice per week. This year, my goal was once per week, with a schedule of Thursdays. I posted 31 times in 2023. I posted every week from June 30th until December 31st, except for Thanksgiving day.

MONEY

We used to make much bigger moves in our finances – buy a house, sell a house, pay off mortgages. This year, we did things differently. Mr. ODA discovered Treasury Direct. He invests in these short term savings bonds. They’re available from 4 weeks to 52 weeks, but we’ve only held them for 4 or 8 week periods. We had three different insurance claims over the last year or so, leaving high savings balances for a few months. Treasury Direct was a way to get our money to work for us, earning at a faster rate than a regular savings account.

Our net worth increased by almost $400k, which is impressive since there wasn’t a large swing with a new house purchase. In January, home values were still high. However, the higher interest rates over this year cooled the market some, leaving our values $64k lower than January.

The goal all along has been for both of us to quit working. I quit in 2019, but have been doing odd jobs here and there. Mr. ODA’s quit date continues to be pushed back for a variety of reasons, but it’s something we’ve been planning towards. One step towards that goal was that we opened a new checking account. Nearly all of his pay check goes into that account, and we don’t touch it. While I could manually track our money as if we don’t have his income, it was a big step to helping us visualize him not working and how our finances would play out. I’m happy to report that I haven’t felt the strain of not having his paycheck coming into the account.

We opened one new credit card this year. We open new credit cards when we have a large purchase coming up. It started with our IVF journey, and we’ve continued that concept. It’s a “free loan” for us. We could either pay the total sum immediately (typically over $10k) from savings, or we could get an interest free credit card, allow our money to earn interest in savings, and then pay the balance by the end of the interest-free introductory period. That’s the path we choose. We replaced the carpet in our new home – the living room and entire second floor except bathrooms – for over $10,000. That’s sitting on an interest-free credit card right now, and I make $500 payments each month, until I need to pay the full balance at the end of the introductory period.

INCOME

Since I quit working my full-time-Federal-career in 2019, I’ve done several odd jobs. I’ve wanted the small break from being in the house, the small opportunity to have conversations with other adults, and a small feeling of contributing to the household’s finances. 2023 was the first year that I didn’t contribute more significantly. I worked 1 day as a substitute teacher in a preschool; $47 was deposited into our checking account. Comical. Even though in the literal “job” sense, I didn’t contribute much, I did work.

Besides the fact that I had to care for a newborn baby and keep three kids and a dog alive for the whole year….. 😉

I manage our rental properties. This year required a lot of management. I’m managing the work that needs to be done at each property. I’m recording expenses per property. I’m tracking income each month to ensure that we’ve been paid rent from everyone (and one property made this a very frustratingly daunting task).

On top of that, I also have worked to declutter and organize our house. As our last baby grows, we don’t need all the baby accessories that take up space. By selling these, it’s providing the ability to buy things that the kids need now. I brought in nearly $1,000 through that process.

Mr. ODA signed up to be a secret shopper. He goes into restaurants, follows the instructions he’s given, and is essentially reimbursed for the meal. He “made” about $750 doing that. It’s important to note that we’re spending money to get that money though. If he spends $15 on a meal at an assigned restaurant, he may be getting only $15 back from the company. Sometimes they offer a premium if they can’t get people to select the “shop,” but it’s just a few dollars.

CREDIT CARD REWARDS & INTEREST EARNED

Every year I love to tout this category. This year, the interest earned section far outperformed any recent years. I typically make a post where I go into the details of how our credit cards are earned, so this is just an overview. For the sake of this conversation, this is based on rewards redeemed as cash. Citi makes it easy to see how much has been earned/redeemed, but Chase has a portal where things are different. Chase allows for your points to go further if you redeem through their travel portal. That makes it hard to manage “earned” versus “redeemed” for a total each year, because the amount earned is inevitably less than it’ll be redeemed for.

Between all our credit card redemptions for cash and interest earned on checking and savings account, we brought in $4,000.

GOALS

I want to track our expenses more often throughout the year. I want to be able to get a handle on trends we’re making with our expenses and whether there’s an opportunity to cut costs. When I do this review once per year, it’s not giving me a lot to work with.

Mr. ODA is discussing leaving his job this year. It’s something that’s been on the table for several years now, but there’s never been a real reason to leave his flexible job where he has a bunch of leave and benefits.

Mr. ODA is working towards a financial advisor certification though. It’s a big deal, and I’m excited about it. He loves to talk about money and help other people with their finances, so I’m hoping this is a springboard for him to doing more of what he enjoys.

I’d like to work more. The few temporary jobs I’ve had have been more time consuming over a short period of time, whereas this substitute teacher position right now is so sporadic that I’m only working 1 day per pay period. While I appreciate the availability I have, I’m looking for something with a little more consistency (granted, for the Fall semester, I would basically be available everyday of the week, so maybe that will help).

We’d like our deck and patio to be replaced, which will then lead to more home improvement expenses. We plan to build a privacy feature wall under the deck, so that we can add a hot tub on the patio. There’s also an old hookup for a tv, which means some sort of tv set up is planned for out there, which may be further expenses. We have two more bathrooms in this house that haven’t been touched yet, and I plan to do a few upgrades.

A lofty goal will be that we keep our tenants in place and don’t have any insurance claims this year. The last year has definitely been more taxing on us than previous years.

I think the big goal is that Mr. ODA wants to hit $4 million in net worth. Mr. ODA was 30 when we hit $1 million, 34 at $3 million, and hopefully 37 for $4 million (I don’t know when $2 million occurred because we weren’t updating regularly). Being that we’re at $3.98 million now, and that we grew by nearly $400k this year without any drastic moves (buying/selling a house), I think it can happen!

NET WORTH

This “net worth” graph isn’t the best since I didn’t update our net worth from February through June, but I kept those months in there so you can see the trajectory. I’m sad that life got in the way of my updating those data points. If I just post the first and last month, you can see there’s an increase. But that doesn’t show you that there are dips along the way, and everything is based on a single snapshot in time, even though balances are changing daily. I hope that I’m able to track each data point this year and in future years so I can see these trends.

What day is your house sold?

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The day that’s in the contract as the closing date.

I truly can’t believe how many people have asked some form of this question in my life recently. While I’ve had multiple in person conversations on this topic, this post really stemmed from a Facebook post. “Is it an expectation for people to be moved out of their home the day of closing when buying a home? We sold our house, and are moving into a new home that we’re supposed to close the same day. Is there not a grace period?” What would that grace period be? How would the timing be determined?

On one side, I see the “closing date” section of a Kentucky contract simply states, “The closing of this transaction shall occur on the ___ day of ________________, 20__.” That’s quite useless actually (as I consistently find in KY law and legal documents). There’s a lot to be inferred by that statement, versus it being explicitly and clearly stated. On the contrary (as this has gone many times over), Virginia wins out.

In the paragraph before this image, it states where closing shall occur and by what date. This excerpt clearly indicates the purpose of “closing,” leaving little room for interpretation.

However, if we take a step back from the legal jargon and contractual obligations, whether explicit or inferred, we can see the logic. If you’re the buyer, once you sign the paperwork to purchase the house, wouldn’t you expect the keys to be handed over to you right then so you can start moving in and living in this house you just paid for? Wouldn’t you want the sellers out of the house because they’re no longer financially responsible for the house, and you don’t want any liabilities of their damage (intentional or accidental) to fall on your hands? You’ve done a final walk through and signed off that the house was in the condition you expected it to be in at that point in time.

Now this isn’t to say that there aren’t other terms and conditions that can be agreed to between both parties. “Lease back” or “rent back” clauses are commonly used. Sometimes it’s beneficial for a buyer to process the transaction (e.g., a rate lock expiration), but they allow the seller to remain in the home for an agreed-upon period of time (e.g., to bridge a gap before their new house is ready/available). But all of these terms are to be agreed to, in writing, before the closing date.

When we just sold our last house, we allowed the buyers to store things in the garage. We entered into a contract separate from the house purchase contract, called a “Preclosing Occupancy Agreement.” I haven’t needed one of these in Virginia, so I don’t know their standard form, but KY’s form does well here. The document outlines the date the buyer can take occupancy and whether there’s a charge for it. There were other items that outlined incidentals, such as utilities. In our case, the buyers were simply asking for garage space to put some of their belongings (because they had a same-day-closing for their sale and purchase), so we didn’t require them to put any utilities in their name before the sale.

BRIDGE LOAN

I can understand the complaint. Financially, you likely need to sell your current home to afford a new home. The “cash” from your sale is what you’ll use as your downpayment, as most people don’t have 20% of $400k sitting in a savings account (nor should you!). That makes the option to buy the house, take a day or two or seven to empty out your old house, and then sell your house not feasible.

There’s such a thing called a bridge loan. It’s a short-term loan used to purchase assets until long-term financing can be secured. There are more fees and high interest rates associated with this. However, it could be worth it to save the hassle of Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI). PMI is required in many cases where you cannot provide 20% as a downpayment for a house purchase. It protects the lender in case you don’t make your mortgage payments. PMI is removed when your principal balance falls below 80% of the original value of your home, whether that’s through regular mortgage payments or you make additional principal only payments. You can request PMI be removed earlier than that if you provide proof that your home value has caused your principal balance to now be less than 80% of the value, which is typically proven through an appraisal at your cost. If you put 0% down on a $400,000 purchase, it would take almost 12 years of payments before your loan reached 80% of the original home value. That’s 12 years that you’re paying PMI on top of your mortgage payment, and those are funds that are doing nothing productive to your net worth. A bridge loan may be worth it if you already have a sale date on your current house and only need to cover a few days or weeks.

SUMMARY

Logistically, it would be great if you could buy your new home, move all your things, and then sell your current home. Financially, this isn’t normally feasible. A lot of the time, you’re needing the equity you have tied up in your current home to purchase your next home.

Our first purchase was made up of two 401k loans (that we maxed as residential loans, which are penalty free), a gift from parents because we were short just a few thousand dollars, and cash on hand. We needed about $80k. Our second transaction, we chose a new build house. We sold our house, went into a rental for 3 months, and then used the sale money to purchase. Our third transaction was also a new build. We hopped AirBnBs until that got old with a 6 month old and 2 year old, and then crashed in Mr. ODA’s parents’ basement. We had 7 weeks between selling our house and purchasing the new one, so the cash from the sale went into our account, and we let it sit there until we needed it to close. Then this current purchase was actually done before we sold our third house, but we had executed a Home Equity Line of Credit prior to the sale. We used the HELOC to put the down payment on the current house, and then the sale of our third house paid off the mortgage and HELOC before distributing the cash balance to us. In all of these transactions, we had the ability to float the funds. That allowed us the ability to house our belongings in “long term” storage (not a day or two) for those two times we had a gap between the sale and purchase. The HELOC allowed us to slowly move our belongings to the new house this last time, and then we did a final moving day of all our big items just before closing (our current house needed work when we bought it, so we didn’t move right away).

But in all cases, unless there’s a separate document indicating so, the closing date of a transaction is the date that you give or take possession of the property. If you were buying, you wouldn’t want to take the risk of the previous owners messing with something in a property you now own. If you were selling, the buyers would have the same expectation.

December Financial Update

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I’m not even sure where to start for this month. It has been a whirlwind. There were a lot of tax payments last month, and this month I was still paying those among several other things.

PURCHASES

I purposely paid my credit card statement a little earlier than the due date so that it wouldn’t be that high for this update, but then I put a bunch of charges on it over the last two days. To catch you up – we’ve been holding money in our savings account for as long as possible. When we were getting 0.2% interest on it, it didn’t matter when I paid the card, so I typically paid it shortly after the statement closed. Now that we’re getting 4.22%, it’s worth keeping the money in there to earn interest, and then paying the credit card closer to the due date.

Our regular-use credit card is currently holding: $300 towards my dad’s iPhone (I should really share that mess of a story in purchasing that) (also, that doesn’t clearly account for my sisters having paid $200 towards that because that’s just “cash” in our checking account balance), $500+ of the kids preschool tuition, renewing our zoo membership for $139 (honestly, 5 of us enjoying the zoo for the year for that price is wonderful), over $200 for signing our son up for tee ball, two car insurance payments, and a rental insurance payment. I don’t typically go through the charges like that, but it’s just been a bunch of just-big-enough charges to grab my attention on our credit card balance. We drove to-and-from NY, so our gas station payments are higher than average too. As a reminder, the credit card balance you see also includes $10k worth of new carpet that we’re paying slowly on a 0% interest credit card.

RENTAL PROPERTY EXPENSES

I paid two of our Richmond houses’ taxes. The taxes are due on January 14th, but if I pay them this year, then it reduces what’s viewed as our ‘profit.’ I make sure to pay any known January bills in December of each year. Those two houses are so tiny, so their tax payments being so much larger than they once were kind of hurt (I’ve discussed the increases in property assessments, thereby increasing taxes). It was about $2,000 paid out (on top of all the things I paid over the last two months).

I also had to pay two supplemental taxes for Lexington. Government entities not meeting deadlines is a pet peeve of mine (I used to work for the Federal government). Last year, I completely missed that paperwork I received was a supplement bill for education, and then I received a penalty.I thought it was their typical assessment notice since it was outside of tax payment time. Luckily it was a few dollars, but I was so lost. This year, I paid close attention when I received an extra tax-related document. This supplemental bill was for trash services. Again, a few dollars. But think of all the extra paperwork, staff hours, postage, payment processing cost to collect an extra $20 from every house.

RENTAL PROPERTY INCOME

We had two tenants give us notice that they’re moving out. While extremely unfortunate timing on the year, I’m also human and understanding of their need. One tenant had a traumatic work event that led to him being laid off, and another family bought a house. We’ll find a way to get the houses re-rented as soon as possible, even though our vacancy time may be longer than it would have been if we were looking for a May 1st or June 1st renter. We have someone interested in both houses at this time, so that’s encouraging.

We had 4 tenants not pay in full. They all reached out to me to let me know in advance, and they paid what they could by the 5th (I always appreciate that – it holds them accountable, and it allows me to not foot all of the bills that I have to pay on the houses). As of the end of the 5th, we were short over $3,000 worth of rent ($1300 of that was for the house that has been late since October 1st and is finally working towards paying their debts).

As of today, we’re short $2,400. The tenant who’s playing catch up only has a balance of $960 left, which is great (that’s been a long road). Another tenant typically pays $750 on the 5th and 19th. So they’re not late on $750, but they are late on the $375 they didn’t pay in the first half of the month (this is a special scenario that we put in place for them because they couldn’t pay all at the beginning of the month, so we increased their rent as a concession to being able to pay twice per month without creating more late fees for them… but they’re still late).

NET WORTH

The market significantly increased over the last month. We also had $28k come in as part of our insurance claim; our cash increased by $35k though, so there’s an additional savings in there. And even though we had large expenses on our credit cards, it’s still slightly down from last month.

BONUS STORY

Mr. ODA and I wait for Black Friday deals to purchase our iPhones. We typically purchase every 3 years. I usually bite for a new phone so that the camera is better, but I’m suspicious that Apple is sending updates to alter the clarity of photos on older phones. How can I take these BEAUTIFUL pictures for the first few months of having a phone, and then all my pictures are grainy suddenly? ANYWAY.

Walmart had a deal that you purchase the iPhone 14 on a payment plan, and they give you a $350 Walmart gift card. These are the deals we typically seek. Apple is still getting their full price for the phone, but Walmart is offering a deal to bring our net to $0. When you want to purchase the phone from Walmart, it asks you to log into your carrier’s account. For this phone, it’s Verizon. We spend hours trying to figure out who the primary account holder is and what that log in it. Verizon does it where you can create your own log in and see you phone’s data at any time, but to see the entire plan’s data, you have to be the account holder (makes sense, but complicates this particular instance). The primary account holder is my mom’s phone number. Who died in March. We finally get assistance with that and log into the account through Walmart. It brings up all the lines on the account, we select my dad’s number, and then it gets to step 2. It says they can’t verify the address on the account and we need to go to Walmart mobile desk in a store. I call Verizon. Can’t help. I call Walmart. They keep telling me to put the item in my cart, which isn’t how you purchase a phone. So no help.

I finally bite the bullet, and on the Saturday after Thanksgiving, march myself to the nearest Long Island Walmart. They can’t help because they need the phone in the store. I swear if I were at my Walmart in Kentucky, they would have helped me. It was actually at the point where I was going to risk waiting until Tuesday so that I could have my phone desk people help me. The Walmart employee actually wasn’t flippant or trying to blow me off; I believe he genuinely thought he couldn’t help me. What needed to happen was that he called their help desk people, and then he was the mediator to figuring out the address. I figure this because a Walmart customer service person transferred me to such a person, who said he’s not allowed to talk to me and has to have a Walmart employee talking to him on my behalf.

I gave up. Sunday comes. I hope that some “overnight” processing of information has magically cured the process. It didn’t. I call Verizon again. Some angel of a lady answered the phone and actually helped me more than I could have imagined. I told her that I wanted the Walmart deal because all the Verizon deals require me to change my plan to unlimited data. I let her know that I’ve already spoken to several people, and they keep trying to convince me that I get a “free” iPhone while my plan increases $30 per month in perpetuity (versus $23 per month for 36 months for the phone). She offered me a deal that equates to $5/month for the phone for 36 months. So I put 100x more hours into this than I should have, but it ended up working out in our favor!

Rental Cost Changes from One Year Ago

mrsonedollarallowance3 Comments

I keep updating my investment property tracking spreadsheet to reflect the current costs of insurance and taxes. My tracking shows last year’s amount, which I use as an indicator on whether I need to look further into this year’s bill (e.g., is the amount a reasonable increase?). For so many years, most of our insurance policies changed by a few dollars; now, I’m seeing large swings in what’s being charged. Where jurisdictions were slow to change property assessments, they’re now catching up, which increases the taxes.

As a renter, your rent is increasing to cover these costs of the landlord/owner. Here’s a comparison of my fixed cost increases against my rent rate increases. As you’ll see, I’m not trying to get top dollar out of these properties because the market has increased so much (and that leaves me more exposed if someone doesn’t pay their rent on time). My rent increases barely cover the cost increases that are happening on some of these houses. Remember that while I’m showing fixed costs, this isn’t covering the maintenance calls that I receive and how they’re more expensive than they once were also.

ESCROW, CONCEPTUALLY

In most cases, for a traditional mortgage, an escrow account is set up. It calculates your taxes and insurance payments for the year, divides by twelve, and is added to your principal and interest payment for the mortgage. In addition to covering the total payments to be made, there’s also a requirement that the balance of the account never falls below twice the required monthly payment.

If your taxes owed for a year are $1500, and the insurance is $300, then your monthly breakdown is $150 ($1500+$300=$1800; $1800/12=$150). The minimum monthly required balance is $300 (twice the $150).

As taxes and insurance increase each year (typically), there’s an analysis done to ensure the projected monthly balance never falls below that $300 threshold. If the balance is projected to fall below the required minimum amount, then it triggers an increase in your escrow payment. Your escrow payment will increase to cover the shortfall, but also to cover the new projected costs to be paid. So while you may be offered the ability to make a one-time payment to cover the shortfall, your mortgage payment may still increase to cover the projected costs. For example, if last year, your tax payment increased to $1750, and your insurance to $350, then your monthly payment to cover those charges is $175 ($1750+350=$2100; $2100/12=$175). Your mortgage will increase by $25 per month because now your escrow agent knows the projected costs to cover are higher.

The analysis uses the current year’s amounts owed to project the coming year’s monthly balances; it doesn’t account for the probability that these amounts increase each year, which essentially means that there’s perpetually a shortfall. In other words, while in Year3, they know that there was an increase in costs from Year1 to Year2, they don’t inflate the costs of Year2 to cover Year3 projected payments.

I prefer to not have an escrow, but at this point, for any mortgages we have, they’re all escrowed. We have six of thirteen houses with escrow. While I pay more as my mortgage to feed into that escrow account, it means I don’t have to manage the annual or semi-annual payments. On the contrary, this means I need to be managing our finances to prepare for large outlays throughout the year on seven houses (in the last quarter of the year, I’m paying out over $8,000 to cover taxes owed).

ESCROW REANALYSIS

This post was prompted by a notification that an escrow reanalysis was done on a mortgage that was just transferred to a new company. I thought that their break down was the most clear I’ve seen. A quick note – your escrow will pay the bills that come due, regardless of the balance in the account, even if it means it’ll overdraw the account.

They clearly showed that the anticipated property taxes are projected at $199 per month (although, I’ll reiterate that this is based on last year’s actual outlay numbers, which aren’t accurate for the coming year). Then they show that the taxes are $43.08 per month. They then go as far to show the total of these two required outlays. There’s verbiage that explains the required minimum in the account must be twice the total taxes and insurance ($242.08 * 2 = $484.16).

There’s another detailed breakdown of each month’s escrow income and outlay (that I don’t have pictured here) that shows the month that is projected to fall below the required minimum. That month’s account balance is -$136.37. The difference between the required amount of $484.16 and the negative balance of $136.37 is $620.53 (pictured above). When that’s broken down by month, it’s $51.71. Take the total taxes and insurance payments and add the shortage amount to get the new monthly escrow amount of $293.79, a change from $222.25.

Below, they show you that there is no change in the principal and interest payment, then it shows how the current escrow payment is adjusted to the new escrow payment, along with the shortage amount.

I created this table to show the differences between escrow payments over the two years. I kept the houses that don’t have an escrow because it can be compared to a future table in this post. There is no House5 in this table because we sold it several years ago (houses didn’t get renumbered because House5 still exists in terms of tax documentation).

TAX AND INSURANCE UPDATES

Each year, we see an increase in these amounts. Usually it’s across the board, but Kentucky districts had kept the housing assessments the same through the pandemic. As housing prices increase, your property assessment can be increased by your tax jurisdiction. The assessment increasing leads to an increase in taxes. This is why people getting excited that house prices in their neighborhood are selling higher than expected isn’t great if you’re not planning on selling any time soon; those increases in values means you’re paying higher in taxes.

In Richmond, VA, the property taxes are $1.20 per each $100 of the assessed value. In 2022, House2’s value $163,000. In 2023, the value was increased to $203,000. And let’s not forget that we purchased the house for $117,000. While it’s nice that the home values in the neighborhood are increasing significantly (and we knew the area was going to get better and better based on development happening), we can’t realize this gain until (and if) we sell. So in the meantime, we’re paying higher taxes on this amount. Although, I suppose the assessment could be even higher because the actual value of this house is probably more like $260,000.

Among 13 houses (don’t get confused – there’s no House5 up there because we sold it), I need to cover a total cost increase for taxes and insurances of over $4,500. This doesn’t include the higher costs of trades people if there are any maintenance calls, so this increase is the bare minimum for me to keep my same income.

RENT INCREASES

I constantly see complaints about the cost of rent, or that a landlord is increasing rent. Unless we’re looking for a tenant to move, our general philosophy is to increase rent $50 every two years. This worked fine because home assessments increased at a slow, reasonable rate until recent years. Now jurisdictions are capturing these larger increases based on those inflated sale numbers when competition was high in from 2020 through 2022.

In some cases, the rent for the area brought it in a higher amount than compared to our purchase price of a house. In those cases, we went several years without increasing the rent. Looking back, that probably wasn’t the best idea because now we’re behind on capturing how significant these last few year’s fixed costs have increased. However, the trade off to that is that we’ve kept great tenants in the house, haven’t had to pay to turnover the unit, and have minimal maintenance calls.

This table shows the total increase in insurance and tax payments from 2022 to 2023 in the first column. I divided that by 12 to get the monthly amount of that increase (second column). Then, since I said we typically increase our rent by $50 every two years for the same tenant, I multiplied that monthly amount by 2. I’m showing that if we want to only increase rent on long term tenants every other year, then I need to plan ahead on how much my costs are increasing.

This isn’t a perfectly accurate capturing of our cost increases since I’m not going back to 2021 to capture those changes in amounts, but it’s a general estimate. This shows that if I were to increase all houses by only $50 every two years, it’s cutting into my bottom line. Only 6 of the houses have increases less than $50 for two years.

SETTING THE RENTAL RATE

Let’s pause and talk about “bottom line.” Landlords have investment properties to make a profit. They’re looking for an income stream.

I regularly hear people say they can own a house for less than their rent, which is likely if you’re speaking only on principal and interest of a loan. However, you need to qualify for that loan. You may not have 20% down, so you may be required to pay private mortgage insurance (PMI). You may not have good credit, which means you’re probably going to pay a higher interest rate than I’m currently paying. You need to be able to cover taxes and insurance, which means you’ll have an escrow account set up, which increases your monthly mortgage payment. Then there’s all the other costs of home ownership.

That’s where people forget. When your hot water goes out, you call me. I spend $1,500 for about 2 hours worth of someone’s work to replace that. When you have a water leak, I spend $3,000 for a day’s worth of 2 plumbers’ work. When a storm drops a tree on your house, I’m the one spending hours on the phone with insurance, finding a contractor, getting quotes, and paying the contractor $3,700 before I get insurance reimbursement. Those are the big unexpected expenses. That doesn’t include all those smaller plumbing problems that cost $200 or $500 at a time.

Then in some cases, I probably put time and money into the house to even get it ready to rent to you. I didn’t always buy a house that was ready to live in. You may have projects that need to be done when you first move in also, so which costs money. Those are expenses that I’m trying to recoup through my rent rate also.

There may be other costs to my ownership that I’m trying to recoup through the rent, such as property management. I may have to pay someone else 10% of the rent, every month. I am projecting that there are going to be costs that I need to pay for also (e.g., water heater, roof replacement, plumbing issues). When I need to pay a plumber $3,000, I’m not coming to the tenant to say “I now need $3,000 to cover this cost.” Instead, I’ve set my rental rate the expect such a large payout on my part.

Not only am I trying to make sure that my rent is set at the right about to cover the costs that I’m putting into owning and maintaining the house, I’m also hoping that I’m going to make some money off owning this house so that I can live. I don’t get to pay myself for the hours I put into managing the property. Whether or not I have a property manager, there is still time that I put into managing the houses. Would you want to work for free?

BACK TO RENT INCREASES

While we manage each house individually on setting the rates (asking ourselves: do we think the tenant can absorb the increase, do we have to increase to cover actual costs now), this shows that our monthly income was increased by $475. If you look back at our total monthly increase in expenses of just taxes and insurance, it’s about $375; add in the cost increases for property management (increased rent means increased fees because fees are based on the rent price), and our fixed costs went up $415. On a whole, we’ve offset the increases.

However, you can see if we had one or two houses, some of those increases could be significant. House3 is costing us $64 more for each month, but our increases are typically about $50 at a time. We’ve had the same tenant in this house since we bought it. A $50 increase every two years hasn’t kept up with our costs. Since we have other houses, it helps cover the costs on House3.

House2 and House3 are identical in layout. House2 has been upgraded to all LVP, whereas House3 has carpet everywhere except the kitchen and bathrooms (granted, it’s new carpet two years ago). Since we purchased these two homes with tenants, rent was already set for us. House3 has been the same tenant since we bought the house, and the increases have brought us to $1200 per month in rent. House2 has been turned over 3 times: the first was a divorced lady who moved back in with her ex-husband; the second was there for several years, but we began having a lot of issues with her, and we told her the lease was up; the third was the one who flooded the house in December, and causing the need for the fourth. Now we’re renting that house at its market value of $1600. That means House3 is operating at a much lower rent than we could get if we rented to new tenants. However, the tenants are wonderful, and we’ve purposely not raised the rent on them in significant ways because we don’t want to cause them to move.

SUMMARY

Cost increases in rental properties can be significant over the years. With the rising costs of all goods and services, property values weren’t immune. The increase in property values leads to an increase in an assessment, which means an increase in taxes. That cost is relayed to the tenant, as this is a for-profit business. I’m trying to make an income for my family with rental properties.

I’m not trying to price gouge tenants, but make a fair living based on the costs of owning these houses. My first goal is to not turnover tenants, so I do what I can to make my tenants happy by taking care of the houses and not creating drastic rent increases each year. Secondly, I’m not going to set a price that my tenant can’t afford, thereby putting me in a hard position where I don’t have rent paid. Having multiple properties helps to offset the costs so I don’t have to play catch up on one or two houses worth of higher expenses, by putting my long-term tenants in an uncomfortable position where they can’t afford the rent.